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Showing content with the highest reputation on 01/21/2020 in Posts

  1. 3 points
    I've always been suspicious of tricks and shortcuts with denim. IMO, the main reason for slow fades from people prone to complaining about that... is because they're not actually wearing their jeans very much. It's really dumb when a guy who rotates 3-4 pairs complains that his Momotaros don't look as good after six months as somebody else who only wore his pair of jeans almost daily for six months. The best and most reliable way to get good fades is simply wearing the same pair almost every day, no gimmicks necessary. You don't have to wear one pair every day, but if you're primarily pursuing fades, you probably should. I know some folks swear by certain activities (like cycling) that get more dramatic fades, but also have drawbacks (people like Soonami who cycle in their jeans get great results but also quickly blow apart the crotch. Meanwhile, I've never had a crotch blowout.) I'm convinced that unless you spend literally all of your time just sitting on the couch, you'll get good fades after wear your jeans for a year or so. I mean, I work in an office and don't live a particularly extreme lifestyle, but all of my jeans look good after they've been worn for a year or more. (I do have a baby on the way, so I guess I'll find out soon if that affects my fade progress )
  2. 1 point
    If you have a baby on the way, it’ll certainly put pressure on the waist and you may even have to stop wearing them completely!
  3. 1 point
    Continuing the tyrolean mania. Jacket is a cheap m65 kind off thing. Miltec, I think. Shirts carhartt, jeans denimba and shoes heschung x yuketen
  4. 1 point
    ha.. how many sizes down should I go..? sag y/n, stacks.. cockfade to left or right.. should I keep brass knuckles in my pocket..
  5. 1 point
    I made this belt about two years ago, and this is how it looked new. The customer wore it every day all this time and sent me some photos recently. Amazing beautiful patina, and the leather is still very strong and not stretched at all, the belt will last for many years. That's what I love oak bark stirrup leather for!
  6. 1 point
    Trailblazer shirt / jacket in rust
  7. 1 point
    since i am a a big fan of the ´76 and the price came up reasonble i had to get another pair. cone denim to the left, japanese to the right. i like both denim so far
  8. 1 point
    Thanks Julian, so are you saying that water is the catalyst for the anti-skewing process to kick in and (depending on the strength of that pre-processing), it will operate on a sliding scale from resisting the usual skew somewhat to possibly even skewing in the other direction? I assume the right amount will result in no skewing either way? How does this work in practice, what is involved in the pre-processing? Also, I’m glad I have the US Cone 76s (which I don’t think suffer from this anti-skew) rather than the new Bulgarian-Japanese hybrid version!
  9. 1 point
    b_F it's on their website!
  10. 1 point
    Do I want to know what that fancy backpack costs?!
  11. 1 point
    Got an initial response from Warehouse that is positive. Still some stuff that needs to be worked out to get a definite answer. Working on it!
  12. 1 point
    Hey everyone, scrap Roy from the list as it is not going to happen. Let's focus on Warehouse, OA and Tender? I can send Neil and Jeremy an email on the possibility of OA to see if it's viable.
  13. 1 point
    Did a little backpocket study on my Warehouse jeans the other day. Bit shitty pics but whatever: 1001's 1001XX Inazuma special 800 CL 1003XX 15th anniversary DD-1003SXX 1105 15th anniversary 700C Bonus patch pic
  14. 1 point
    The OA01XXc have been my go-to jeans recently. I think I'll hold on washing these for a little while and see how the denim does initially with some less frequent washing.
  15. 1 point
    Acquired some Grangers and Nikwax - getting ready to wash my j1a-gt for the first time. going to follow these procedures (plus remove jacket sling & loosen draw cords on hem and hood) : Any other sage advice? Should items be washed separately? What fabrics can be machine vs hand washed. Dryer vs. hang dry? Grangers for everything? Nikwax on only GT? Best practices to reduce the amount of fading? EDIT: thanks @CARLOOA for the following: How do I wash this stuff? As a general best practice with performance technical fabrics: 1. Run the clean cycle on your empty washer. 2. Double rinse your washer if it’s old. Fabric softener and harsher chemicals can negatively affect material performance. 3. Use technical fabric wash if possible, otherwise use a water based detergent. 4. Zip up jacket and turn inside out to prevent buttons getting fucked and run not on hot. 5. Double rinse. 6. Hang dry. 7a. If you’re experiencing wetting out (when the water doesn’t bead), you may need to reactivate or redistribute DWR, keep inside out and tumble dry low heat or iron on low. 7b. If you’re experiencing wetting out still, you may need to reapply the DWR. if using spray, remove from washer, apply liberally, tumble dry if needed (some sprays don’t require heat to reactivate). If you used 2 in 1, tumble dry if needed. What I do—YMMV: Sell before you wash it, duh. Just kidding: For jackets: single wash cold, double rinse. For S/CH: single wash gentle cycle, no spin—don’t really want premature abrasion though generally these fabrics are pretty hardy. Manufacturer says proprietary coatings. DWR reapplication should be fine. I use a steamer to get the wrinkles out after air drying. For DS: single wash cold, double rinse. Manufacturer says proprietary coatings. DWR reapplication should be fine. For GT/WS/S: Everything is DWR'd, this is a coating on the face fabric that allows the water to bead out. With abrasion this comes off, to reactivate wash, reapply, and depending on what DWR, tumble dry or iron. I use Grangers. For PB: since no outer fabric and no DWR is used no tumble drying or DWR is needed.
  16. 1 point
    Recently received some Orizzonti era Denime. I'm not really sure what they are besides some odd rendition of the XX cut. They use 3 different types of buttons and don't have any back pocket rivets. Does anyone have any ideas?
  17. 1 point
    The part I was getting at is that Erlsn's created a lifestyle brand of progressive, forward thinking, high tech. China's known for cheap labor, human rights violations, and extremely poor working conditions. How does he reconcile that? With higher prices? His Twitter defense is disingenuous at best. If he just said we toured this factory and it's great, they have a break room and the workers are happy then cool. But he's just saying I'm Chinese, which is cool but bro you were born in Canada and live in Germany. I don't know, some sort of justification besides 'then don't buy it' is what I was looking for from him instead of just being ad hom defensive.
  18. 1 point
    For context, I've owned a J1A-S and J1TS-S but not a 2.0 J1A-GT. The GT shell I'm using currently is a J47-GT and I picked up a 2.2 J1A-GT as a possible replacement for it. Some initial thoughts on the 2.2: I love the collar. It looks and feels great up or down. I felt the previous iterations with the 3D collar ridge never sat right on my neck and felt awkward. I like the hood better than the previous generation's ones. Combined with the collars I thought they had too much going on visually. I appreciate this version's simplicity. Unfortunately I have a big head so the hood fits a bit smaller than I'd like so I've removed it and auxzipped my J63A in because I love its hood. The flak pocket is okay but I don't think I'll use it much personally. I feel like zipping the zipper from left to right should open the pocket instead of closing it. With how it is currently the zipper head blocks a bit of the opening on the left whereas if it was all the way on the right it'd be out of the way. I loved the centre pockets of the J1A-S and used them almost exclusively. You had the flak pocket quickly and easily accessible with the top flap, a sort of mezzanine pocket behind that accessed from the side and also another zipped security pocket behind that. I get that the security pocket probably had to go for the liner access to work nicely but can't help but wish there was still a mezzanine pocket behind the flak pocket. Edit: mezzanine pocket still present, thanks for pointing it out @RodG! I like the new gravity pockets. They feel easier to insert and remove items from. I don't use them as intended with the wrist flick so I can't speak on that aspect but just as extra pockets I feel like they've improved. They sit more towards the back of your arms now instead of the side. I still dislike the sleeve pocket. I get that it's a defining feature of the J1 but I've always found it cumbersome to use. I would've preferred the stacked detached sleeve pockets from the J16/J1TS on both sides but that's just me dreaming of my ideal ACR jacket. I'm glad to have the articulated speedlock hem back in my life. Been missing it since I sold my J27. I think it's the best looking integration of speedlock. I prefer jackets without interops because I don't often carry an additional bag, you lose the symmetry of having speedlock tabs on both sides and you sacrifice some backwards capacity if you have 2-directional waist pockets. This isn't so much of an issue for me with the J1A because I feel that asymmetry is intrinsic in its design and it's not lacking in the storage department. Some small tweaks I'd make have to do with fastening the jacket. The centre snap is positioned nicely but I wish it was on webbing like the top snap so it'd be easier to grab at both sides with my index finger and thumb instead of having to get at it through just the right side with my thumb. Also I wish the two main zippers were detached at the bottom on both sides instead of one each for less fiddling around. I like how they're done like that on my J62-PB. When it comes to Acronym jackets I prefer the simpler cuts with all the features I need/want. I go for my personal minimum maximum, if you will. I prefer my J47-GT over the J47A and J47TS I owned. I found their extra pockets surplus to my needs and unnatural to use. I value pocket capacity and accessibility over quantity. It's why the J28 isn't for me while most froth over it. It's why the J62 is fantastic to me despite only having 2 pockets. It's why the J16 is one of, if not my favourite jacket. Pretty much the entire front of it is storage space and all of it feels right to use. I feel like the 2.2 J1A-GT hits a sweet spot for me and overall I like the jacket a lot. It's not perfect but it's very good for me functionally and aesthetically. YMMV.
  19. 1 point
    This is the big one honestly. I'm willing to "fill in the blanks" and assume Errolson has found a good factory, that pays its employees well and so on (certainly other companies claim to have done that). But harping on about the wastefulness of fashion, and posting these (sometimes incredibly scary and sensationalist) articles about climate change and the dying off of insects and the pollution of the oceans... all while selling garments made of precariously laminated plastics... that I find a little hard to swallow.
  20. 1 point
    My only issue with the change in manufacturing is this: Espousing a political view of responsible capitalism via retweet AND employing a contract factory in a country with a bad record of regulating environmental impact and labor conditions while having clothing made of materials with high pollution risk in an industry notorious for labor exploitation. Some assurances would be good so I can retain rose-colored perceptions.
  21. 1 point
    That’s would be a long story and I’m so far a 50 50 towards it as a 100 made in China dude. And some information is properly out as current situation. 1. Any concerns about build quality would basically unnecessary. Some factory are being in the field for decades, for all these outdoor big names etc, or for premium material based brand as visvim, the oem factory was a long term term. You might wonder why so these fake shit came from nowhere rapidly, me too until a heard fake Guerilla taking advantages from previous oem factory for north face( no surprise) and advices from the workers. 2.Workfare would not be dramatically changed compared to CZ as I believed the factory and workers meet the acrnm standard costs around 850 euro(insuranced), also the working time is bit flexible, which really is, and definitely not be the foxcom one hopefully. However, threat to Acrnm team really is, they most likely not be directly copied like they used to be in tabao, but in an even worse, or you name a better way? That the pattern was copied heavy ass. This happens in Visvim OEM factory and not a rare thing. 3. When asked why Germany as birthplace as the brand, I might recall dude quite honest answer that the healthy balance of costs and industry’s heritage benefit the whole output. However during the merino and leather period, production was also heavily take place in japan, and Tilak for definitely help a lot sharing its pattern like j7 or j20 and many more, and at last a own factory. Then again the move sounds a reasonable thinking after years, and why it’s make sense that j1a was a solid update that huge references would transfer to China’s factory. What’s too surprise me is they using their alpha and omega model testing water, but then again, make sense at a scale of economy, I still recall assumes a total 1000 pieces 2.0 was made, compared with normal total 300 pieces( not confirmed anywhere, just guess, but you know me). For 2.2, I kind believe the order was hiking into 1500 pieces as xs for a thing. 4. Pure personal meme, but that be a super funny you might also feeling that. In China there be some meme around dude wearing mixture of Bruce Lee(material arts way) or Jet Li as the brand ambassador and Chairman mao the subtle military uniform way, this style was called”Zhong Hua Li Ling”, was originally a commercial from the local brand “Seven“, means Chinese standup collar. I myself was always lurking for E guide king boxing design, and at last a stand up collar j1a Version came up and finally produced in China, not bad hah.
  22. 1 point
    Domestic or foreign production does not really mean anything inherent with regard to quality, but moving abroad suggests something about E's business ethics. Honestly, I can’t believe my mans. I guess there's a reality where actual production limitation (machinery/tooling) are the proximate cause of the move. Without more, I'm not going to be that naïve. For Errolson to retweet William Gibson religiously and express sympathy to the liberal causes of living wages and ethical capitalism, especially concerning the clothing business, the move seems craven. Not like anyone really cared about the production though.
  23. 1 point
    Been waiting a while and I was finally able to get some time to do this. It's cool seeing the differences between generations of these models and how they've improved (and sometimes even areas where they don't). But basically it's just plain fun to nerd out. Differences in the in the sleeve patterns. The e-J1a is a size L and the J1ts-s is an XL for reference. You'll notice how the e-j1a actually has a baggier sleeve despite being a smaller size. They have a really similar shape which is a nice carry over from one iteration to the next. Of course, the pocket addition is definitely one of the more noticeable changes. I really like seeing the differences between how the underarm was patterned. It's a little hard to see but the e-j1a was a lot simpler than the j1ts-s. This is one of my favorite parts of the jacket because it's so functional. It's a noticeable different when you're wearing the jacket and you can see how the jacket is pulling as you move your arms around. The short sleeve is also constructed differently - the e-j1a is literally a short sleeve wrapped around the longer sleeve while the j1ts-s is patterned and sewn into the longer sleeve. Here's a shot of the gravity pockets of the j1ts-s and the e-j1a. It's kind of hard to see but the e-j1a is completely hidden and you can only access it from the cuff. The j1ts-s' pocket placement is a little weird imo because when your arms are at your side they warp the fabric a little around the forearm (because of the stiffness of the zipper) and it ends up looking a little weird. I was waiting for the laundry machine to rinse out any leftover detergent and I realized that I could throw in the j47a-gt for a comparison as well. Sorry for the dark images! Here are some shots of the underarm and of the shoulder. The e-j1a and j1ts-s have really simple shoulder lines but the j47a does something it a little differently. I think of the zippered versions of the gravity pockets I prefer the placement of the j47a the most - it's closer to the back of the forearm so it doesn't mess with the shape of the sleeve too much. But sometimes when I'm walking the zipper tab flips up and down as it catches the side seam of the jacket. So functionally, I think I prefer the hidden gravity pockets of the e-j1a because it's the least obtrusive. These are just some shots of some fun details that I really like on the e-j1a. The flak pocket is so over the top and definitely makes it the most used pocket on the entire jacket. I think there are technically four pockets in that area - main flak pocket, phone pocket, open side entry pocket (don't know how else to describe this one), and another side entry pocket with a zipper. Also the webbing with slits cut into it for your headphones (which I never use because it's such a hassle to thread them through).
  24. 1 point
    i think this comes down to body proportion. For my body, the M pants are short while the L fit just right. however for jackets length wise, the small jackets are the correct fit, but, i have long arms so they run small on the sleeves. This is because I have a unusual body where arms and legs are very long but the torso is quite short. Average male bodies have longer torsos and shorter legs, which is probably the case with E and I. Just for ref im 6'1"
  25. 1 point
    This is just spitballing—but I think what's always left out of the size discussion is "normative" fit. The above picture by @Z-11 is great because it allows you to understand the overall proportions of the garment relative to your size. The problem with internet fashion forums is the overall lack of understanding of one's own body and the relative effect of certain types of clothes on an overall aesthetic. In other words, it seems like people do not understand what clothes are fit to fit their 'fit? When asking for garment sizing, are you average build/height? Do you have muscle mass? Where do you carry your weight? Are you trying to wear something more slouchy? Is there a fit you're trying to emulate? Do you just want it to be in line with what the product shots do? With regard to the super-wide Acronym pants: they allow for an interesting drape but it feels like people don't understand how a fabric even hangs on a body. In my opinion, wearing the ultra wide 25/27/30 or 15/17/22/23 super-wide pant without having mass under it looks like it's on a hangar or you're wearing an older siblings clothes. In this respect a slimmer-but-still-wide pant like the 16/24 would do the same without the silly extremeness. If effecting a more billowing silhouette is what you're looking for, I'd just do that. If you're ultra skinny, even a stacked P10 can give the slouch and looseness. The fit models in Acronym materials have relatively athletic body types and they're all between 5'10–6' 2" or something at probably 150–180lbs with probably even weight, and thus, circumference consistent with an athletic body. Accordingly, their medium displays the normative fit for their clothing. I guess I understand though—fitting clothing requires something that's difficult: self-reflection and cognizance. "Am I tall?" "Am I too fat?" "Is my waist too big or too small?" "Do I lack muscle mass?" The hard questions!