Tender Co. Denim
Posted 13 April 2010 - 06:34 AM
Has anybody seen a pair of these in the wild yet? They have a guidebook which is password protected. I hate being tantalized.
Posted 13 April 2010 - 07:59 AM
Checkout Five's blog (http://five-secondsk...label/TENDER CO). He posted the guidebook on his blog. I really like that jacket.
Edit: can't get the link to work right. You can click on "Tender Co." under category
FS: UES 400S size 32 http://supertalk.sup...ues-400s-denim/
Posted 13 April 2010 - 08:58 AM
Posted 13 April 2010 - 11:35 AM
Really great to see my new project come up here- I'm delighted you're interested! I started Tender last summer with a few weeks in Kojima learning hand indigo-dyeing Japan-style, before bringing it all back home to the uk, and the first season (A/W10) is now in production, due for delivery to some really nice stores around June.
Sorry there's not more info up on the site yet, the A/W10 guidebook will have the password taken off in the next few weeks. In the mean time you guys can open it with the username 'visitor' and the password 'isambard'.
If people are interested I can post some (worn-in) pics here, as well as some making photos, as things develop. Right now I'm finishing up the prototype samples for the second season at home, then in a few weeks I'll be off to Norfolk to help with the indigo dyeing of the first collection production.
Let me know if people need more information, I'll try and answer things as best I can...
Posted 13 April 2010 - 11:37 AM
Now you can ignore my email
Posted 13 April 2010 - 03:53 PM
Posted 13 April 2010 - 04:43 PM
Posted 13 April 2010 - 04:53 PM
Posted 13 April 2010 - 05:11 PM
Posted 23 April 2010 - 10:48 AM
Posted a quick review of Tender on my blog
Mostly about the fabric, includes a few close ups of the Denim Tender uses both Raw and after the Over-dye.
I hope to do a follow up too, the belts look great too!
Posted 02 May 2010 - 10:28 AM
Anyway, yesterday I went up to Leicester to collect my jeans and jackets, and check throughall the details. Left from St Pancras with 2 big empty suitcases and a couple of rolls of fabric for new samples:
Posted 02 May 2010 - 10:41 AM
Everything's cut by hand, and it's just the two of them in the factory (sometimes helped by their son, Vishal).
Here's Sarla turning out a pocket bag:
Posted 02 May 2010 - 10:53 AM
First the pattern is chalked out on the fabric. Because TENDER's denim is unsanforized (and shrinks about 15% during the dyeing process) the consumption's really high- around 4m. It's also quite tight getting the pieces out across the narrow width of the fabric. I made my patterns at home, but then I got some help from Kojima master-pattern-makers when I was in Japan last summer.
Then the pieces are cut out. You can see Sarla working on the other end of the lay, behind Natu
Posted 02 May 2010 - 11:01 AM
TENDER's jeans and jackets are sewn with 100% cotton 'Eagley' thread, spun in Manchester. For the samples we used this soft white thread, but in production Natu managed to find a heavier-weight, unbleached thread.
Posted 02 May 2010 - 11:12 AM
Because this production is really small, there aren't any folders or jigs, and everything has to be individually cut and pressed by hand
Posted 02 May 2010 - 11:20 AM
Posted 02 May 2010 - 11:22 AM
I didn't want any exterior branding for its own sake, but equally I think it's important that nothing's hidden away. One of the aims with TENDER is that nothing should be apologetic, so if you have to have a care label it should look good, and might as well double as the branding. They're printed on a nice papery acetate ribbon, which can always be cut off by the owner. In production the type number is hand-written, rather than printed.
Posted 02 May 2010 - 11:46 AM
Hip pockets go on with a single stitch, starting under the waistband, doubling back on itself at the pocket corner, and ending up back where it started under the waistband. This is based on the way Levi's match pockets were orginally put on, before the advent of twin-needle machines. Quite a few of the Japanese repro brands still put their match pocket on like this. The hip pocket sticth is asymmetric, so that once both pockets are sewn on you get a '66' (this'll make more sense once I can get shots of the completed jeans up!)
Posted 02 May 2010 - 12:21 PM
Posted 02 May 2010 - 12:31 PM
Posted 02 May 2010 - 01:56 PM
cant wait to see the finished product and the details William
Sorry to be a tease with this, but until the first production's finished and dyed I don't actually have anything to take pictures of... give me a few weeks. In the mean time I'll post up some more manufacturing photos as it all unfolds. Thanks to the people that have pm'd and emailed me too- I really appreciate the support!
Posted 02 May 2010 - 05:55 PM
Posted 02 May 2010 - 07:15 PM
Posted 03 May 2010 - 04:39 PM
Why you busy bee you. Looks good.
what ra's referring to is http://www.superfutu...ead.php?t=64386 where this all started for me in a way. Please excuse the 'I'm just doing this for fun, no plans to do a production run', although it was true at the time!
Posted 03 May 2010 - 04:46 PM
then Natu puts in the buttonholes. I'm doing a 2-button fly, using a nice Japanese repro of an early Levi's fly button. Having experimented with positioning I found that you can quite easily get away with just 2 buttons, and I've seen it on early overalls, where it would make them easier to get on and off, and also presumably save on buttons. I like the overalls feel of it.
then the fly is sewn onto the front panel
and the 2 front panels are sewn together in a single-stitch case seam