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Recon x ACR was from memory cheaper because of the lower grade materials used - no Gore for example.

Platt - Nice to hear he's still alive!! I think his biggest hit was Prophet... it's a shame he didn't stick around in the business in some capacity - a cover here n' there or something wouldn't break his back would it? However, I think there was something that went down that he caused him to leave. Coulda been related to profits n' what not from his stuff at Image.

I've got a fair bit of Vexed images somewhere - as does Stephen (I think we started PMing each other over Vexed gear years ago?)

As a side note, Maharishi woulda been in this thread 10 yrs ago hahaha

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Gotta be honest, my Polartec ninjahoody has been by far my favorite hoody for ~2-3 years now. Thing is built like a tank, only shame is that the sleeves were definitely cut short. Really wish syb had kept on making more.

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ordo told me about this thread, stoked to see people talking, thought i'd chime in.

Somewhat surprised no one has mentioned undercover yet, not that they truly qualify as a "techninj" brand but they have definitely done some fantastic stuff with tech fabrics, i suppose the utilitarian focus isn't there though.

FW09 comes to mind for the use of Schoeller PCM. These jackets come to mind:

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Next, I want to mention that anyone who hasn't should pick up The Supermodern Wardrobe. Which while being totally out of date provides a good history of urban techwear and is totally worth the $10 I paid for it.

Isaora has produced some interesting stuff so far, from what I've seen in person I'm sold on the quality. I understand that they are backed by Theory so that explains the scale of their operation.

Aether hasn't made anything that interesting so far, they seem to have the right idea but are going after a much more conservative market than what seems to be of interest in this thread.

They are however designed in conjunction with FYI design studio, which has been getting a lot of press lately. FYI is an amazing design studio outside of Whistler BC, that works with brands like Burton [ak] and idiom, Patagonia, Sophnet. I have a friend who interned there for a semester and was blown away. If you are interested in tech wear this is a place you want to read up on.

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Anyone tested the Mission workshop jacket using schoeller c_change fabric ? The thing is supposed to work like a pine cone by opening or condensing depending on the conditions to regulate heat and moisture levels. I know Isaora alos uses c_change for some of its stuff (along with other outdoor brands that lack techninj appeal).

orion-jacket-black.jpg

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GT-J15 goretex with the waffle inside. I wear it when I need a hood, I usually wear the bomber more though this season.

Thanks !

All that CP company transformable stuff reminded me of Kosuke Tsumura's Final Home

finalhome.jpg

http://www.finalhome.com/en/2006/10/final_home.php

In 1986, while visiting New York, Tsumura - then stylist at Issey Miyake - became fascinated by homeless makeshift shelters and garments. Apparently deeply marked by the pessimistic tone of Blade Runner, Tsumura starts imagining garments for a future where people would live in harsh urban areas without the protection of a roof.

"When one loses his house, the thing which protects him in the end is cloth".

"If we lose our house because of a disaster, war or unemployment, as a fashion designer, what kind of clothes would I propose - and how would they look in trouble-free times?"

Home 1: The first and iconic Final Home piece, a nylon windbreaker with 28 or 44 pockets depending on the length. "Nylon coat came about from me pondering this question. Its concept is 'a cloth which can be adapted according to need'. For example, to protect against the cold, you can put newspapers in the pockets, or if you equip it with survival rations and a medical kit, it becomes a valuable cloth when taking refuge. The name 'FINAL HOME' was first given to this particular garment, and then it became the brand name — it equates to the idea of it being the 'ultimate shelter'."

"The coat comes in three basic colors: "orange" to remind of one's existence; "khaki" to blend in with the forest and "black" to assimilate in the city. Directions for use are written on the bag in which the coat comes."

Kosuke_Tsumura_2.jpg

(prototype)

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home-1.jpg

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Receive coat : "The coat is lined with mesh fabric, and by opening the pockets, breathability can be increased.

Valuables can be easily stored in the detachable small pockets."

recievecoat.jpg

Krush coat : "Fashion show in collaboration with DJ KRUSH in 1998 Autumn-Winter season. For this event, DJ KRUSH composed a number, titled 'FINAL HOME' and FINAL HOME designed a coat named 'KRUSH model'. "

krush.jpg

Coan & Kenaf seeds jacket : "This jacket was created by FINAL HOME and Naohiro Ukawa as an effort towards designing a "Utopia." The patch holds corn and kenaf seeds. The idea behind this design is to rip the patch apart and plant the seeds to grow crops to prevent food shortage in cases of terrorist attacks, war or earthquake disaster."

seed.jpg

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GT-J15 goretex with the waffle inside. I wear it when I need a hood, I usually wear the bomber more though this season.

Wearing mine today. Why you got the jacketsling unattached from the top loop?

Felix, I think last time I saw that t was flipping through 5thD WAYWT archives. Mis-remembered it as being you-

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Cool discussion, checking out some new stuff as a result. Eyeing those 4season OG pants, love the functionality of it, but it'd fit much better into my current wardrobe than a lot of the other stuff posted in here.

edit: it's also interesting to me to see fashion designers whose design drivers are leaning more toward functionality, as opposed to a "sense" of functionality that isn't quite there. The application of an actual design process is something that seems to be missing from a huge majority of fashion, since so much of it is dictated by trendsetting/following. I like seeing something that is trying to achieve something more than just that; something with a specific idea that transcends the trend its a part of it. A good example (although it doesn't quite fit into the rest of the brands posted), is Issey Miyake/Reality Lab's dresses that were made to fold into two-dimensional geometric shapes for easy and appealing storage. The clothing is a little two out there, but the idea is wonderful, the designers involved were inspired by a japanese computer scientist who designed a program to create three dimensional geometric forms out of single pieces of paper.

MiyakeDresses3_0910.jpg

This is flat.

MiyakeDresses2_0910.jpg

This is not flat anymore. but can become flat again.

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I think that's awesome.

I'm down with Final Home and brands that like to straddle the border between fashion and functionality, but things like the "seed jacket" are a little to out there for me. Why the fuck are you ever going to rip shit off your jacket just to plant some flora? Kind of ridiculous to me.

If you're going to make functionality your selling point (gimmick?) try to make it utilitarian even in the most basic sense.

Again, I'm down with techninj/urban tech shit, but utility needs to be the primary focus. I think that's the whole point of the aesthetic...

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I think that's awesome.

I'm down with Final Home and brands that like to straddle the border between fashion and functionality, but things like the "seed jacket" are a little to out there for me. Why the fuck are you ever going to rip shit off your jacket just to plant some flora? Kind of ridiculous to me.

If you're going to make functionality your selling point (gimmick?) try to make it utilitarian even in the most basic sense.

Again, I'm down with techninj shit, but utility needs to be the primary focus. I think that's the whole point of the aesthetic...

I don't think its stupid and I probably stand corrected by many people who are far more in the know. However, I see it as a concept idea showcasing technology and design. Because the idea of Final Home as Tsumura states is

imagining garments for a future where people would live in harsh urban areas without the protection of a roof.

So is it that hard to imagine?.

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