Tender Co. Denim

[Uchison]

Hi William, thanks again for your reply.

You could say that I'm kind of a 'fan'. As I have 3 belts, both the denim vest type 612, as the first run of type 900 jacket, the TdN duck pants and a type 130 slim fit woad-dyed jeans.

My Tender collection is pretty nice by now. Still missing a great shirt. Hope that TdN will stock some...I'd love to get a type 375 woad dyed henley.

[Uchison]

@jelmer, thanks for that pic. Inspiring ;-)

[rodeo bill]

Wow, uchison, thank you! I'm very flattered and pleased you have so many pieces.

Here's a very kind little article that just went up on The Fader, a magazine I really rate. It's a quick preview of some pieces that will be appearing over the coming weeks:

Designers Up Close: Tender Co.

STORY BY: KADEEM JOHNSON , PHOTOGRAPHY: KADEEM JOHNSON

William Kroll brought over his clothing line Tender Co. all the way from the UK, packing up everything from combs, to boots, to the carefully silk-screened, cap-sleeved cotton shirts printed with foxes and elephants. Exhibiting as part of the brand new MAN Tradeshow, a promising new assortment of dude brands, Tender gave us a peak at their spring collection, and as always, it was a quirky mix of expertly-made goods. Cute isn’t a word we like to use often, but there’s just something sweet about their unadorned, cozy clothes, and those raw denim jeans are made so perfectly that they’ll last a lifetime and just get softer and softer with every wash.

Read more: http://www.thefader.com/2012/01/19/designers-up-close-tender-co/#ixzz1jwdlYCnL

[kimi]

hey will, i was just wondering if the new belts are coming with other enamel colours aswell as the red? if so where is stocking them?

cheers.

[grooveholmes]

I want that fox tee.

[mapz]

yeah i'm not one for t-shirts these days - but that fox shirt is tight.

[nachtelijk]

more info on these, please...

[redragon]

You made combs also?

[Uchison]

So there are some great stuff coming in 2012! Nice.

One question though. What would be the best way to clean (or wash) my TdN limited edition Duck pants? Will it loose a lot of color if I throw it in the washing machine? It still looks dirty. Even after I brought it to the dry clean.

Thx.

[Thor]

Hey Bill,

i am very tempted to get the blanket lined duck coat however i am a bit worried about the size. you can see from my pic that 4 is about the limit for my logwood. i am a bit worried that a 4 in the longer duck coat might be a little too tight ?

cheers man. keep it up

[rodeo bill]

So there are some great stuff coming in 2012! Nice.

One question though. What would be the best way to clean (or wash) my TdN limited edition Duck pants? Will it loose a lot of color if I throw it in the washing machine? It still looks dirty. Even after I brought it to the dry clean.

Thx.

thanks uchison! you should be able to stick your canvas pants in the wash without any problems. The fabric was hot washed in the dyeing process, so it shouldn't shrink or lose too much colour. Haviung said that, I'd wash it cool/warm, separately, and hang dry them to be on the safe side.

[rodeo bill]

Hey Bill,

i am very tempted to get the blanket lined duck coat however i am a bit worried about the size. you can see from my pic that 4 is about the limit for my logwood. i am a bit worried that a 4 in the longer duck coat might be a little too tight ?

cheers man. keep it up

thanks thor, too! this is also in reply to you pm. the coat is cut off the same basic shape as the jacket, but fits slightly larger (as it's a coat, rather than a jacket). For example, I find the jacket size 3 a bit tight, but the coat size 3 is fine. So I think you should be ok with a size 4. I don't know where you are, but you could give few & far, in London, a call- they had a size 5 in stock fairly recently i think, although it may be sold by now. hope this helps

[rodeo bill]

hey will, i was just wondering if the new belts are coming with other enamel colours aswell as the red? if so where is stocking them?

cheers.

hey kimi, the enamelling's just in red for now, although for me the real fun with these will start when the enamel starts to chip off and show the brass underneath. My next personal belt will be one of these, so I'll post pictures as it develops, for sure

[kimi]

hey kimi, the enamelling's just in red for now, although for me the real fun with these will start when the enamel starts to chip off and show the brass underneath. My next personal belt will be one of these, so I'll post pictures as it develops, for sure

Agreed, i think it could look really nice!

[rodeo bill]

You made combs also?

yes! natural cow horn, made in england, packed in a riveted calico bag, also made in england (actually the bags were made on my kitchen table....) I can post some pics of these at some point too.

For now, in reply to someone a while back who asked about the cow horn buttons on SS12 jackets, here they are:

cut in england from the top of the horn, so that you can see the concentric rings running through them. While the combs are cut lengthways from the sides of the horn, these buttons can only be taken from the ends, so you get only 3-4 buttons per horn, before the horn becomes hollow in the centre. They are then sewn on by hand, through the eyes of the logo....

[rodeo bill]

more info on these, please...

wehell.....

This has been really exciting! I'll try to dig out some factory photos at some point, but they're built in england of english wattle-tanned undyed leather. i've been wearing my pair for the last few months. beaten up and oiled quite a bit. here's how they're looking now:

these have been a tiny run, and will initially be exclusive to Unionmade, SF Cal, delivering in the next couple of weeks. At first my pair was pretty uncomfortable- they have a gusset tongue which aids waterproofing but where the suede folds in on itself it really pressed in to my foot. But after 2 or 3 weeks they softened up a ton, and now they're really comfy. I've been wearing them most days through the winter.

[Uchison]

thanks uchison! you should be able to stick your canvas pants in the wash without any problems. The fabric was hot washed in the dyeing process, so it shouldn't shrink or lose too much colour. Haviung said that, I'd wash it cool/warm, separately, and hang dry them to be on the safe side.

Thanks man! Washed them at 40 degrees Celsius. Didn't get completely clean but now I see what's happening. It's indigo bleed from the vest....

On the ther hand the pants shrunk precisely enough to have the perfect fit again. Saw immediately that it shrunk so I tried it on wet to be sure. The fit is better than before the wash. Happy now.

[redragon]

rodeo bill

Will definitely be watching for that one. Looks really nice.

[Jelmer]

Bill, I really like those boots, is there any chance TdN in Amsterdam is going to sell those?

[erk]

love the boots bill. great j0b.

[Thor]

I'm going to have to sell my Logwood 900 jacket . Its just a little too small for my fat belly . I would say ideal for someone who wears a 44 in a Type III.

Its been worn once for a photo above and still has the washtag attached. I want to get a size 5 desperately (anyone want to trade?)

so I am selling at the ridiculous price of £150 plus postage. Please pm if interested.

Edited January 24, 2012 by Thor

[timmens]

love the boots!!

[rodeo bill]

thanks very much for the nice comments on the boots! I'm just giving them a bit of an oil, which reminds me that I took some photos the first time I oiled them, in the autumn. They've changed such a lot since then!

here's what the first layer of oil did.....

[gregd]

Few and Far in London are closing at the end of Feb, and so are offering some good deals on their remaining stock. I went to help my wife - but couldn't resist picking up the one remaining Type 990 'Flowerpot' Duck coat. It's a little smaller than my perfect size - but at less than half retail I can live with it. It's a really nice piece - feels almost Victorian some how. Just wore it out in the snow this evening!

William - what dye did you use to get this colour?

There are a few pieces left - a pair of duck trews (I think 33"), some denim waist coats, a couple of plains Ts - and some of the sheepskin vests (didn't check if these were at a good price). There is a dark brown belt (small) at GBP45 - a great deal for anyone who it will fit.

I also picked up a new season T (at pretty regular price) - great print of a bowler hatter gent.

Edited February 4, 2012 by gregd

[darly900]

^

They're cut (on the bias), without a side seam, from an English woven heavy canvas which I had piece dyed in a small vat, so that it had to be squashed down to fit. Because the fabric is so stiff it dyes irregularly across the folds in the cloth. The colour itself is mixed to match a piece of flowerpot from my windowsill (I actually chipped off a piece and posted it to the dye house). I wanted something akin to the classic duck colour, but a bit warmer and deeper.

The fit is type133, which is slightly lower-waisted and straighter-legged than either 130 or 132, and they have seat darts rather than a yoke. All the manufacturing details are the same as the denim jeans, although as a nod to their heritage there are no belt loops (belt loops and belts weren't introduced until the early C19th, I believe), instead there's a cinch back, buckled with 2 brass saddle rings, cast in England. These match up nicely with the lost-wax-cast brass button at the front.

I don't have a pair with me right now, but if people would like I'd be happy to post some fit pics at some point.

This thread is so enjoyable just to read through

[iantweed]

Hello. I love this thread.

I have a sizing question about your t-shirts. I'm a medium in UK sizes, often a large for Japanese brands. What size in Tender tees would I be?

[grooveholmes]

What is your chest size. Generally the tees fit quite snug. I am about a 20 chest and wear a size 4.

[rodeo bill]

Another bit of worn-in leather today. This is my wallet, which I've been using for nearly a year, together with a brand new one, from the production which is just beginning to appear in shops:

rather than being stacked vertically, the cards overlap horizontally- the reason I did a wallet in the first place was because my old one was making my cards snap. I keep a wallet in my back pocket, and by having the cards 'landscape' they were getting a long flex against each other when I sat on them. By stacking them 'portrait' the cards flex in their shorter direction, so they are less likely to crack. This arrangement also lets you get more cards into the space (8). Apart from the card slots there's a single long cash pocket. In the sample (worn in) it was a bit too shallow, I find receipts tend to shuffle out, so it's deeper in the new one in the photos. also the stitching was a bit janky on the sample, it's much nicer in production.

The main thing about this wallet though, is the wattle tanned leather, which is the same in both pieces here. It's aged beautifully!

[Thor]

Does anyone have the measurements for a size 4 blanket lined coat ? ( not the jacket). I missed out on a 5 and the store which has a 4 doesn't seem to want to tell me. I can't return it if its too small either.

[timmens]

Bill, the wallet is super duper nice. great idea to have the cards horizontally.