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Dior Homme Denim


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#1 midnight

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Posted 02 August 2008 - 08:53 AM

Hey everybody. Myself, operationjake, and cotton duck all agreed that the previous Dior Homme Denim thread was getting a bit ridiculous, so we decided to post a new redux thread. We have worked very hard on adding to the FAQ's to include more sizing, stretching, and purchasing information that was not easily accessible previously. If you strongly believe something is missing from this first post, please shoot me a pm and i'll get on it. And please, please, please, no more sizing questions? Thanks a lot guys.


DIOR HOMME DENIM FAQ
written, compiled, and formatted by TheGrapist, Midnight, and OperationJake


*****The real answer to the "What size diors do I buy????" question.*****
Due to the fact that everybody is sick of answering individual questions about this, here is, in my opinion, the best way to figure out what size diors you should get. Keep in mind this won't always be completely correct, but its a fuckload better than stating your weight / what size you wear in other brands.

Step 1: Find a pair of medium - low rise jeans you currently own (made of non-stretch denim) that fits you well in the waist. Not too snug nor too loose.
Step 2: Button this pair of jeans up and align the waist so both the front and back sides of the waistband are directly on top of each other.
Step 3: Use a tape measure to measure the waist of the jeans all buttoned up and layed flat, then double this measurement.
Step 4: Subtract 3 or 4 from this measurement. I saw 3 or 4 because of the fact that diors are 2 inches larger than tagged. Subtracting 2 to start out with will account for that, while the extra 1-2 inches account for stretching. If you want a pretty basic fit in the waist / are getting a pair of diors that you know have a tendency not to stretch much, subtract 3. If you want a super slim fit / tighter upper block / are buying some diors that you know will stretch a bunch, subtract 4.
****Certain jeans will run smaller / tighter in the waist and top block than others, so in some cases just subtracting 2 will be fine. I personally find sometimes certain jeans like the 17.5cm cuts as well as the mij washed jeans look better with a bit of a slouchier top block, so for those I may just subtract 2.
Step 5: Buy.


What varieties of Dior Homme denim are offered?
Besides the cut, Dior Homme denim is available in a “Made in Japan” (MIJ) version and a “Made in Italy” (MII) version. MIJ denim is of higher quality, tapers more, stretches less and costs more than the MII counterpart. The MIJ version, however, also has slightly larger back pockets than the MII version.

How much will Dior Homme denim stretch?
Anywhere from 1” to 2.5”, with the raw denim stretching usually around 1.5”. The tighter the denim is on your body, the more they stretch, as with any raw denim.

How is Dior Homme denim sized?
Dior Homme denim is sized 2” larger than the tagged size. Ex: if the tagged size of a pair of Dior 19cm raw denim is 28, they will measure 15” laid flat (30” around).

The cut size (i.e., “19cm” or “21cm”) refers to the hem measurements of a tagged 32” pair of denim. For each size larger or smaller, add or subtract .5”, respectively. Ex: a size 30 in the 19cm cut would actually have a 18cm hem.

Where can I buy Dior Homme denim?
Dior Homme is mainly available through Dior Homme stores. The three US locations are:

Las Vegas, NV - (702)-735-1345

Beverly Hills, CA - (310)-247-8003

New York, NY - (212)-421-6009

Dior Homme jeans are sometimes also sold in stores such as Saks, Barneys, Harrods, and other fashion department stores. Generally only a few high-selling locations will get the line, so it is best to call and make sure they do, in fact, carry Dior Homme before actually going.

Additionally, online stores and proxies offer a large selection of current Dior Homme items. Some online sites selling Dior Homme are:

www.eluxury.com

www.luisaviaroma.com

Be warned, however, that the customs fee from ordering a single pair of jeans from LVR will be about 60 dollars.

www.brownsfashion.com

www.yoox.com

www.diabro.net

and others. Proxies can be found nearly everywhere with the right hookups, but the most common on SuperFuture is TheGrapist. His thread can be viewed at: http://www.superfutu...ead.php?t=23121

What’s special about Dior Homme denim?/What cuts are available from Dior Homme?
The main attraction of Dior Homme denim is the cut. The three main cuts available from Dior Homme are: the 21cm cut, the 17.5cm cut, and the popular 19cm cut. Each refers to the hem measurements. Hedi based these cuts off of two A.P.C. cuts. The 21cm is similar to the New Standard, and the 19cm is similar to the New Cure.

How much do I size up/down for Dior Homme Denim?
For the 19cm cut, it’s generally best to size down about two to achieve a typical “Dior Homme slim fit.” The legs should be snug and quite slim while the waist and top block remains comfortable yet boxy. The black raws are generally slightly slimmer than the indigo's, but this does not mean you should change your size completely. They will also take slightly longer to stretch out, but will in the end stretch about the same amount as the indigo version. The blacks take a while longer to fade, as well, so do not purchase them if you are looking for a jean with that quality.

For the 17.5cm cut you may size down one to achieve a slightly skinny fit, or stay true to size to achieve a fit slightly skinnier than a pair of 19cm sized down two.

For the 21cm cut, it’s generally best to size down the same amount as one would with the 19cm raws.

Is the raw 19cm or 21cm selvage? Etc.
UNLESS it is specifically labeled as selvage, no denim cut or model from Dior Homme is selvage.

Who designed the 19cm and 21cm cuts? Who is the current designer for Dior Homme?
As most of you know, Hedi Slimane was the founder and designer of Dior Homme from 2001 to 2007. To be precise, his final collection was F/W07. He was the one who created both the 19cm and 21cm cuts. The new designer for Dior Homme is Kris Van Assche. Even though the designer has changed, the cut of the jeans has not. Please do not go asking around for F/W07 raws. You will simply be wasting your time.

The cut size (i.e., “19cm” or “21cm”) refers to the hem measurements of a tagged 32” pair of denim. For each size larger or smaller, add or subtract .5”, respectively. Ex: a size 30 in the 19cm cut would actually have a 18cm hem.

How much does Dior Homme denim shrink?
The washed models should not shrink at all as they aren’t raw. The raw denim used to fabricate the MII and MIJ jeans is sanforized, and they should shrink no more than .5” in the waist and .75” in the inseam.

What sizes of Dior Homme denim are available?
26, 27, 28, 29, 30, 31, 32, 33, 34, 36, and TheGrapist has stated he has seen a size 38 before. Size 26’s are not sold at this time to any stores in America, but if needed, PM TheGrapist and he may be able to procure a pair.

Reference Codes
When dealing and trading Dior Homme, the reference code is often used to place the item within the season it was produced. Here we decipher a typical/standard code: 5EH1015678 E47 B6A8 (SS'05 blue glitter jeans).
'5' refers to the year, that is, 2005.
'EH' refers to the season, that is, Eté (Summer). HH refers to 'Hiver' (Winter).
'101' refers to the item group, in this case, trousers (Pantalon). Other examples: 102 refers to blazers (Veste), 105 to shirts (Chemise) and so forth.
The next 4 numbers '5678' should refer to the specific item, with jeans it will reveal the type of cut as the entire 16 digit reference code will only differ by the first 2 digits in this set of 4 numbers for the differing cut. As noted earlier, the # for this item is 5EH1015678 E47 B6A8, referring to the 21cm cut. The # for the 19cm variant is 5EH1011678 E47 B6A8.
'E47',is the fabric code.
The last 4, 'B6A8', is the colour code. In this particular case, 'B' refers to Bleu (blue), as in indigo blue, the main colour of the jean. 'A' refers to Argent (silver), the colour of the glitter. Another example would be B6N0 - the colour code for the SS'03 released classic blue distressed clawmark jeans painted over in matte black paint. The B6 again refers to the base colour bleu whilst the N0 refers to the black paint ('N' for Noir - black).


Links to previous Dior Homme threads:

The old Dior Homme Denim thread

Are all Dior Homme raw denim jeans made with japanese denim?

Authenticating, seeing the difference between fake and real

raw Dior denim

Dior denim (2005 thread)

Dior denim (2006 thread, also discussing the selvedge version a bit)

Dior Homme Raw 21cm *Worn/Pictures*

Selvedge Dior jeans (pictures)

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#2 operationjake

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Posted 02 August 2008 - 08:56 AM

fucking sweet.
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#3 Wesley Pipes

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Posted 02 August 2008 - 09:14 AM

Nice FAQ and this was definitely necessary
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#4 jmayhew

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Posted 02 August 2008 - 09:32 AM

Good FAQ, fit pics of all 3 cuts would probably be helpful to many too.
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#5 xh0llyw00dxx

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Posted 02 August 2008 - 12:20 PM

This should make all our lives so much easier. You guys are awesome.
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#6 windy88

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Posted 02 August 2008 - 12:35 PM

guys,, would like to ask newbie question. when the first time i tried my MIJ 19cm raw, i couldnt even button up the last 2 buttons. was it supposed to be like that? or should i get the one that could be button up easily or snug on the waist?
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#7 jskidder

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Posted 02 August 2008 - 12:49 PM

and it begins again...
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#8 zerodays

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Posted 02 August 2008 - 01:44 PM

midnight: you are awesome :) , I was wondering since the shops don't really have all the measurement, we should add our BiG measurements for raw/unworn jeans.
Im waiting for the raw 19cm sz30, and I can contribute this part, and you can update the first page as we go by?
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#9 midnight

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Posted 02 August 2008 - 10:08 PM

About the BiG style sizing chart, we might be able to do it. Sounds like a cool idea though. I'll see about what I can do...
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#10 maia

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Posted 03 August 2008 - 05:03 AM

Thank you for the new thread. Makes everyone's life easier.
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#11 zerodays

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Posted 03 August 2008 - 12:48 PM

midnight: I also think, once for all, it should have some newer model, such as
http://www.rakuten.c.../784096/784474/
e.g., it looks like 21cm to me,, i havent seen anyone wearing it or any guideline for newer (raw) models..

as well, self-check on wiki regarding the reference code would be nice
here's the text from the wiki

Reference codes

When dealing and trading Dior Homme, the reference code is often used to place the item within the season it was produced. Here we decipher a typical/standard code: 5EH1015678 E47 B6A8 (SS'05 blue glitter jeans).

'5' refers to the year, that is, 2005.

'EH' refers to the season, that is, Eté (Summer). HH refers to 'Hiver' (Winter).

'101' refers to the item group, in this case, trousers (Pantalon). Other examples: 102 refers to blazers (Veste), 105 to shirts (Chemise) and so forth.

The next 4 numbers '5678' should refer to the specific item, with jeans it will reveal the type of cut as the entire 16 digit reference code will only differ by the first 2 digits in this set of 4 numbers for the differing cut. As noted earlier, the # for this item is 5EH1015678 E47 B6A8, referring to the 21cm cut. The # for the 19cm variant is 5EH1011678 E47 B6A8.

'E47',is the fabric code.

The last 4, 'B6A8', is the colour code. In this particular case, 'B' refers to Bleu (blue), as in indigo blue, the main colour of the jean. 'A' refers to Argent (silver), the colour of the glitter. Another example would be B6N0 - the colour code for the SS'03 released classic blue distressed clawmark jeans painted over in matte black paint. The B6 again refers to the base colour bleu whilst the N0 refers to the black paint ('N' for Noir - black).

cheers
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#12 Guest_nightrain_*

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Posted 03 August 2008 - 01:28 PM

wats up with triple yoke on those jeans ? it looks ugly to be honest.
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#13 zerodays

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Posted 03 August 2008 - 03:07 PM

nightrain: you think so? I thought it was cooler somehow, :o I heard that this one is not the selvage, but still interesting. i.e., fit pictures
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#14 midnight

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Posted 03 August 2008 - 08:58 PM

Those are not a classic jean, therefore I am not going to discuss them in the main post. I doubt they are being made this season, or that they will be made again at all whatsoever, so there isn't really a point. The classic things are those that have been kept being stocked without being changed such as the classic raws, the bee shirts, the mij indigo and black washed jean, ect.

And I added the thing about the codes.
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#15 kbi

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Posted 04 August 2008 - 09:32 PM

Hey guys does anybody know what would happen if I would do a hot wash on a pair of Diors RAW indigo denim 95°C? Will they shrink a lot?
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#16 mr_smartman

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Posted 04 August 2008 - 10:30 PM

Hey guys does anybody know what would happen if I would do a hot wash on a pair of Diors RAW indigo denim 95°C? Will they shrink a lot?


reread the first post...it states that theres gonna be minimal shrinkage since these are sanfroized
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#17 andrewexd

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Posted 04 August 2008 - 11:36 PM

didnt kva start like a 25cm ? also, are the raws from kva the ones with the button or do they still have the clasp ? I know either the regualr raws or the selvage have a button. I like the clasp.
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#18 Mihalis

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Posted 05 August 2008 - 12:05 PM

the raw jeans are exactly the same, meaning they still have a clasp. and no, kris van assche did not introduce a bootcut
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#19 xh0llyw00dxx

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Posted 06 August 2008 - 04:49 AM

I think the red selvage raws have a button. I tried them on the other day just for the hell of it and if I remember correctly they were button. They also fit terribly and smelled like sulfur. I wouldn't recommend.
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#20 midnight

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Posted 06 August 2008 - 06:36 AM

The red line selvedge out this season are kind of like a budget version of the silver selvedge that they made just for the hell of having the word selvedge in the title. Get the silver selvedges or get the regular raws.
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#21 Tyler

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Posted 07 August 2008 - 01:21 AM

Hey guys does anybody know what would happen if I would do a hot wash on a pair of Diors RAW indigo denim 95°C? Will they shrink a lot?


Yes they will. In my experience Dior raws shrink more than you'd think. This might be ok in the waist and thighs for some as with wear they'll stretch but that's not the case with the length! I had my raws hemmed to at least an inch longer than I wear my other washed pairs of Dior Homme and after washing the raws in a 40 degree wash they've actually come out shorter so have shrunk length wise by over an inch...

Loving the redux thread but isn't it being 'policed' a little strictly? I've already had a post deleted for some reason and the joy of this forum is the ease with which everyone can voice things. Wouldn't want to lose that but also understand the need to try and control the 'should I buy this size' posts...
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#22 s3lam

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Posted 08 August 2008 - 11:38 AM

Saw these today at Holt Renfrew. They are selling for $325 CDN.

Posted Image

Here is the red line selvage. Reminds me of the APC selvage. Also this jeans doesn't have chainstitching at the hem.
Posted Image

Top clasp is replaced with a button
Posted Image
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#23 xh0llyw00dxx

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Posted 08 August 2008 - 12:21 PM

The red selvage ones are the made in Morocco ones. The cut is pretty bad and they smell. The raws or silver selvage are 100x better.
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#24 Shortypop.

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Posted 08 August 2008 - 03:11 PM

hey i was wondering for the people who own super slenders how much does the material stretch out after you get a good amount of wear in them? I tried on a 29 and loved the fit but just dont want them stretching out too much in the leg cause of the stretchy material. i tried on the 28 as well and they are just too skinny but if they will stretch out then i guess i will get them and go through wearing them. any input would be greatly appreciated! btw i wear a 28 in raws and a 28/29 in washed diors
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#25 xh0llyw00dxx

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Posted 08 August 2008 - 10:31 PM

The ones with stretchy material in them don't really stretch permanently. I'd go with the fit that looks good now.
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#26 Shortypop.

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Posted 09 August 2008 - 01:58 AM

thank you hollywood. im goign to give the 28s a day or two and see how they fit i think i will go with the 29 just because i plan on working out and building my legs bigger( i have chicken legs now)
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#27 midnight

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Posted 09 August 2008 - 05:19 AM

No offense, but if you are planning on building up your legs, you may want to return the 17.5's for some 19cm's. They will have a nicer silhouette in my opinion after your legs grow a bit.
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#28 PG2G

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Posted 09 August 2008 - 07:17 AM

Anyone see the burgundy and/or green wax raws in stores yet? My SA told me they'd drop around August but I haven't made it over there yet.
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Denim free since 02/28/09

#29 TheGrapist

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Posted 09 August 2008 - 07:18 AM

Anyone see the burgundy and/or green wax raws in stores yet? My SA told me they'd drop around August but I haven't made it over there yet.


Burgundy is in stores already.
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Allow me to reintroduce myself ...


#30 midnight

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Posted 09 August 2008 - 08:00 AM

How do they look thegrapist? Worth buying?
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