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SUPERDENIM SMALL QUESTIONS THREAD (Use instead of making new threads)


minya

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  • 2 weeks later...

Hello all starting to puruse the forum after being a way for a few years as I'm trying to calculate my next purchase . My question is a subjective one but appreciate candid and honest answers

Is there any general consensus on Oni? I generally lean towards the "meticioulous quality" end of the spectrum ala Roy and iron heart

Trying to get a vibe oni since I just realized they make a straight with a decent rise

Is oni really niche legacy small batch crafted product? Or is it more of a wow look at my texture "fanboy" faddish thing? Or somewhere in between ?

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Oni falls somewhere in between, leaning to the latter. It's recent intrest in the extremes of the material that has caused the fanboy/fad hype of late in some circles.

Having said that if you ignore the mysterious master craftsman stories there's something to be said for trying them out if only to compare them and try them from a denim geek or purists point of view. I have SDA IH and still tried Oni. They have different cuts so that's not an issue.

Regarding the construction though all those irregular weaves, loose tension and massive slub comes at a price as the denim will break down quickly as a result. The 14oz denim is particularly weak, the 16oz is holding out better though. I wouldn't consider them anywhere near the likes of IH etc for quality or durability.

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Hello all starting to puruse the forum after being a way for a few years as I'm trying to calculate my next purchase . My question is a subjective one but appreciate candid and honest answers

Is there any general consensus on Oni? I generally lean towards the "meticioulous quality" end of the spectrum ala Roy and iron heart

Trying to get a vibe oni since I just realized they make a straight with a decent rise

Is oni really niche legacy small batch crafted product? Or is it more of a wow look at my texture "fanboy" faddish thing? Or somewhere in between ?

 

The Oni today is a little bit different from what it was 5 or 6 years ago...batches are much bigger, the denim is (IMO) not as interesting, and some people have reported the weave density of fabrics being too low resulting in premature tearing.

 

It use to be small batch legacy jeans (production dictated by availability of fabric supervised by Oishi-san), now every person and their uncle has a pair...multiple retailers, each having multiple cuts in multiple denims...clearly the fabric is no longer small batch.

 

I wonder if Oishi-san is still directly involved!?

 

Connors Sewing Factory and Boncoura seem to be top of the Japanese pile in terms of "meticulous quality" at the moment.

 

Roy and Ande Whall are a different kind of product.

Edited by mikecch
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like most of you probably know by now i love Conners but i wouldn't even put them in the same discussion as other brands when it comes to super high quality because it's just not what there objective is , there is no emphasis on keeping stitch counts consistent or even straight . The whole concept of the brand is to make the perfect stitch for stitch reproduction of a vintage pair of levis , all the way down to the wonky stitching an misaligned rivets . With that being said the amount of machine skill is extremely high and the time and research that goes into the products is huge so there is defiantly a lot of quality there ... just in a different way to other brands

Edited by Flash
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It's absolutely meticulous and I think you could say it's quality because they're never cutting corners, but I think the average person would be dismayed if something is sold as "meticulous quality" and then they see wonky stitches that have misaligned seams, etc.

 

 

Is oni really niche legacy small batch crafted product? Or is it more of a wow look at my texture "fanboy" faddish thing? Or somewhere in between ?

 

 

In my opinion definitely the latter.

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really depends on your view on quality mate  but if you lay a pair of Conners beside some Ooe's or similar the Ooe's would have a much more tidy finish , this isnt really the case with Conners but as i  said above that isnt really what Yoshiaki is trying to achieve , all the 'flaws' are intentional and represent the quality of Levis bought in the 40's 

 

edit ... second Ben's post 

Edited by Flash
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Yeah to me it's like

 

1. What are they trying to accomplish?

 

2. Do I care?

 

3. Do they do it well?

 

For the talk of saturation of the market I think that conner's has actually done a great job at identifying something and passionately pursuing it, even if it doesn't appeal to me I'm glad it's out there because i can't think of a better brand if their goal interests you.

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Not comparing Oni to TFH (or any other brand for that matter) but there's a lot of brands that could be labeled fanboy / faddish. It's not necessarily a bad thing. Could argue TFH has fanboys for its vertical fading etc. No offence to Ben intended at all but arent you a fanboy for TFHs denim?

Oni isn't a new brand it's just come into favour again but we're all a bit older and wiser so don't swallow the old denim master line. I think Oni sometimes gets undeserved negativity.

Edited by Geeman
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I'm a huge fan of flat head denim exactly for things like the vertical fades, and if you say fanboy that's fine with me (although it does have a negative connotation)

For me though it's not about if there are like super fans of brands (because especially with flat head there are, just not the us) more so just what the brand paints itself as. And oni paints itself as super secret slub lord one guy whch is a little gimmicky, and maybe false when you consider how many jeans they must put out for so many stores to stock them.

Although I don't think oni is as bad as tanuki!

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I say let the product do the talking. I'm not going to discount a brand because of their marketing (unless of course it goes against my morals).

If I did that then I wouldn't have got my Oni pair which are currently my favourite pair of jeans. Just waiting for cooler weather so I can wear them again  :)

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It's all a matter of preference, and there's nothing wrong with that. I guess a lot of people here just prefer having an idea behind the product rather than just being all about the product itself. If you don't really care and like lots of slubs then Oni should be perfect anyway.

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