APC Styles

[Geowu]

New styles are available for APC Jeans:

http://www.apc.fr/camp_email/images/20050331-UK.jpg

I just received this image on the newsletter. Don't know where to get them yet.

About APC denim in general:

- Is it left or right-hand twill?

- Is it rope dyed? How many dips?

- Is it ring-ring, just ring-spun or open-end?

- Where the cotton comes from?

- Is the cotton 100% organic?

I know APC bought their shuttle looms from Japan a while ago to make their selvage denim

One more thing: There's been a lot of APC topics recently. I don't care if you don't like it

[rhythmandsound]

wonder if those bootcut rescues are selvage

[Geowu]

How you know they're bootcut? All APC jeans are selvage.

[Geowu]

Answering one of my questions:

APC uses left-hand twill.

[rhythmandsound]

re: bootcut, apc's main denim page is updated w/the new styles and associated descriptions:

http://www.apc.fr/us/en/homme_denim.php

ps and the reason i ask if they're selvage is due to that fact that most bootcut jeans are not selvage due to the cut...and the ones that are typically are only able to leave the selvage intact toward the bottom, having to trim it off as the flare fades going up the jean (altho in the pic those rescues don't look very bootcut)

Edited by rhythmandsound on Mar 31, 2005 at 07:36 PM

[Geowu]

maybe they're just semi-bootcut, just in the inseam, not in the outseam. Not sure.

[hahnstch]

are all the dry ones selvage? some of them look interesting... the rescues, the wide-leg with the detachable strap... also, is the high-rise meant to be for men or women?

[rhythmandsound]

wide-leg with detachable strap? didn't see anything w/that description?

[poobrowne]

those high rise pants have 80s mom written all over them.

so i guess that's your call?

i will stand by the anglais. that's all i need from apc.

[Geowu]

wide-leg with detachable strap? didn't see anything w/that description?

They are separated, in the wardrobe part.

The high-waist are women's.

[ringring]

Quote:

Answering one of my questions:

APC uses left-hand twill.

--- Original message by Geowu on Mar 31, 2005 07:30 PM

- Is it left or right-hand twill?

- Is it rope dyed? How many dips?

- Is it ring-ring, just ring-spun or open-end?

- Where the cotton comes from?

- Is the cotton 100% organic?

I know APC bought their shuttle looms from Japan a while ago to make their selvage denim

It's Right Hand twill

Ring-Ring

100% Organic cotton? - doubtful.

Do APC actually weave their own denim? I think they just buy it from a mill.

[Geowu]

ringring, if you say I believe you.

but: let me show you why I said it was left-hand: because on the pictures in the APC site the blue part seems to go from bottom-right to upper-left.

In the site it also says:

'Le denim à double lisière rouge. En 1989, Jean Touitou a voulu fabriquer à nouveau les jeans des pionniers américains du début du siècle, dont la particularité était la double lisière rouge qui permettait au jean de ne pas vriller et d'être, grâce à cet ajout de fil, plus résistant à la couture. Levi's ne les produisait plus depuis longtemps car les métiers à tisser utilisés pour fabriquer ce tissu ne produisaient du tissu qu'en petite largeur, ce qui ne fut plus rentable dès que la production de jeans s'est industrialisée. A.P.C. a retrouvé ces machines à tisser 'collectors' dans des usines au Japon.'

translation: (there might be mistakes as I did it)

'The denim with double red edge. In 1989, Jean Touitou decided to manufacture again the jeans of the American pioneers from the beginning of the century, whose characteristic was the double red edge which allowed the jeans to retain the shape and to be, thanks to this additional stitching, more resistant in the outseam. Levi's didn't produce it for a long time because the weaving looms used to manufacture this fabric make only a small width, which was not profitable any more as soon as the production of jean was industrialized. A.P.C. has recovered these machines from "collectors" from factories in Japan.'

[themdouble]

Anglais... PERIOD! The best cut...

& nicely done Geowu.

-Dub

[ringring]

Geowu - nice translation, I think the orginal french meant to say that Touitou had discovered machines that made the old Levi's style denim in Japan.

Here's a passage from an interview with Jean Touitou from Index Magazine:

http://www.indexmagazine.com/interviews/jean_touitou.shtml

"But I'm telling you, nobody will do denim the way we do because nobody is willing to pay this price for a yard of fabric. It was made in Japan. It's woven on a narrow loom with a special yarn. It's an incredibly expensive fabric, as expensive as wool suiting fabric. It's crazy. But I wanted to do it, and nobody can do it the way we do it because nobody is crazy enough to pay $18.00 for a yard of denim."

Presumably at the time of this interview, he was buying selvage denim from a Japanese mill, rather than weaving his own.

Regarding the Left Hand twill - which one of the APC styles are you looking at? The ones I can see look like Right Hand to me, as does the one in the pic posted by Serge...

Edited by ringring on Apr 1, 2005 at 10:27 AM

[Geowu]

you're totally right. When I looked at the pictures, I inverted the sides (like the way if I was wearing the jeans), so it is indeed right-hand, I apologize.

as for the denim, since Touitou said he buys it, he probably does.

ringring, what do you think about the new models, in particular the tight jean compared to the unisex?

[ringring]

I think it's great to see APC issue so many new styles. Business must be good

I wonder how much difference between the Unisex, Womens & Tight styles are in real-life. Personally I'd gravitate towards the Anglais and Rescue.

Touitou deserves big props for doing selvage since '89 though.

[Geowu]

women's tight jeans and men's tight jeans show exactly the same picture in the site.

women's jeans (the old model) has a lower waist than the new tight jeans and unisex.

that's all the difference I can tell.

since I want a slim fit jean I'm now in doubt between tight jeans and unisex

[35mm]

You should go for the tight and give us a review!

[35mm]

Quote:

I think it's great to see APC issue so many new styles. Business must be good

I wonder how much difference between the Unisex, Womens & Tight styles are in real-life. Personally I'd gravitate towards the Anglais and Rescue.

Touitou deserves big props for doing selvage since '89 though.

--- Original message by ringring on Apr 1, 2005 02:11 PM

Isn't that before Evisu started?

[Geowu]

Evisu started in '91.

[Serge d Nimes]

I think I would like to get the tight ones. the unisex are pretty loose in the legs and will age with wide holy cows. while skinnier leg ones will have more compact ones with my legs. I am however, commited to this pair of unisex jeans for the next 6 months at least. I also wish they were true to size, if so, they would probably be perfect.

Cheers, Joel

I'm not illiterate, I just can't type!

Edited by Serge d Nimes on Apr 1, 2005 at 04:15 PM

[rhythmandsound]

which style is most like current 501's, the unisex (standard) or anglais?

[wild_whiskey]

Definitely Unisex.

I'm glad to see so many new jeans styles from APC. APC was what got me into unwashed jeans in the first place, so I'm really looking forward to breaking in a pair of the "tight" jeans.

[Geowu]

hey wild_whiskey have you got the chance to measure the waist of your APC's unisex yet?

[wild_whiskey]

They've been washed several times. Sorry Geowu.

[UnhappySupremeCustomer]

Does anyone know how much longer APC will offer the Anglais cut? I heard they were discontinuing them.

IDonTcare

[My Pal the Crook]

I have a pair of APC size 35 new standard jeans available for sale if anyone wants them. They've alreadt been heemed to a 32 length and lightly soaked to relieve the stiffness. worn only once.

[rhythmandsound]

Anglais size 36 'sold out' on the site, so maybe they are discontinuing them?

[Geowu]

Maybe if they are discontinuing them there will be a good replacement. Maybe they don't.

[batch]

i was told that english cut has been discontinued, replaced by the new rescue cut.