Self Edge, SF/NY/LA/PDX - updates & info

[kiya]

Roy's Jeans & The Cone Mills Video - Straight & Narrow Fits

A couple of months ago at the end of January we took a trip to Greensboro (North Carolina) with Roy Slaper to experience the production process of a new denim that was designed from the ground up by Roy himself. We took Kellen Dengler, our videographer from NYC, with us to shoot the process, we felt it wasn't fair to keep it under wraps. At the oldest denim mill in the world, this is the story of Roy's new fabric.

This video was shot in 1080p High Definition, it's best viewed in full-screen HD mode with the volume turned way up.

Roy is back with his first denim jean release since 2011. This long overdue set of jeans is made up of a custom fabric from Cone Mills made exactly to Roy's specs. This is the first time in over three decades that Cone has produced a loomstate unsanforized fabric for anybody, and therefore we feel that this is history in the making.

The denim is a loomstate unsanforized indigo denim that clocks in at 14.5oz per square yard in it's raw state. The denim is made of American cotton and is 100% pure indigo dyed in the darkest shade Cone produces.

Technically, the construction of the denim.. the warp has multiple sized (engineered) slub yarns and the weft has large rough spun (non-engineered) yarn. It weighs 14.5 in loomstate and approximately 16.25oz after a hot water soak. Roy broke three of his key machines on this run and had to improve them to deal with the heavier denim.

The fabric hand is smooth and tight. Roy had Cone pack as many picks per inch (46 in 6.4 gauge yarn) as could be done without the loom blowing out and therefore achieved the tight weave he was after. There is a sound to the denim, after its been worn a few weeks - when you rustle it, that's somewhere between suede and oil cloth. This is tough fabric.

The look is streaky and it appears grey-ish at first. After rinsing and a few weeks of wear, it starts to change character as the white hairs formed by the fill yarns wear off leaving the streakiness to mellow and the shade to become a more rich, classic indigo.

The jeans themselves come in two fits, both a slim and a straight leg. Both silhouettes are slightly modified from past iterations of Roy's straight and slim fits.

Never content with just "doing another run", Roy has improved and tweaked everything surrounding the production of these jeans. The stitching of the body is even finer and more accurate and we love the fully lined back pockets and coin pocket. The rear pocket hems now have a hand-done welt in them (slightly thicker than the last run), mimicking the vintage style belt-loops found on many of the best Japanese brands. Last but not least the back pockets have been slightly reduced in size from past versions.

Jeans from Roy don't come often and we can't keep them in stock as long as we'd like, so if you've been waiting for a pair, now is the time.

These jeans go on sale at all three Self Edge stores on Saturday March 24th at noon (local time). They'll also be available in our online store starting 9am (PDT) the same day. Check the product pages in our online store for more photos, measurements, and far far more specifications than you can possibly need for a pair of jeans.

Roy's Jeans at Self Edge Online

Roy Jean RS04 - Cone Project - Straight Leg

Roy Jean RN04 - Cone Project - Narrow Leg

Edited March 21, 2012 by kiya

[DFreshLeish]

New vid and Roy stuff is sick! having seen his new denim in person not only was I surprised it was from cone, but was just surprised by it in general, smooth and very unique.

Edited March 21, 2012 by DFreshLeish

[bbcapone]

Im true size 34 should I get a 35? Not to sure about this new cone denim.

Price the same as old roys?

[Eyeq8402]

Hey kiya does any of the stores have any old stock IH flannels roaming around the attic/basement? Like the 20 or 31:)

[kiya]

Im true size 34 should I get a 35? Not to sure about this new cone denim.

Price the same as old roys?

Answers to both questions are found on the product page: https://www.selfedge.com/shop/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=88

Hey kiya does any of the stores have any old stock IH flannels roaming around the attic/basement? Like the 20 or 31:)

Nope, IH shirts do a good job of selling out if they're a one-run item.

[cash]

Not to sure about this new cone denim.

If you don't know why it's special, then stay out of the fray. These are worth four times the price Self Edge is asking. big ups to Roy and kiya.

Edited March 22, 2012 by cash

[cash]

well, maybe not four times as much...

[kiya]

well, maybe not four times as much...

The next jean release will retail for $1360 thanks to Cash.

On the real... this is one of the most fun projects i personally work on. Roy and I go back and forth about these things and it's all done due to the passion we have for what we do for a living. Nobody is making a lot of money, it's all about how we choose to spend our money that matters.

[t.wayne]

the video is super cool. fun to see all that machinery working in HD. very cool little glimpse into the intricacies of a denim mill, such a gnarly process. well done kiya, and roy.

[cuddlestheshee]

that denim looks sexy as hell. just wish the narrow were a tad tighter but none the less, beautiful work.

[Mild7]

Great video, beautiful editing.

and how georgous is that lady!

[KB237]

Hi Kiya, just wanted to check and confirm that even though 1st april is a sunday the 301s iron heart will be online that day?

[bbcapone]

I cant really tell the difference between the straight and the slim. Is it a big difference?

[beautiful_FrEaK]

RN4 slimmer through the leg, more taper, lower rise.

is that so hard to get from the measurements? if the difference is big in the end on your body...you have to try

Edited March 22, 2012 by beautiful_FrEaK

[boriori]

I may just have to order a pair. They look real awesome!

[kiya]

Hi Kiya, just wanted to check and confirm that even though 1st april is a sunday the 301s iron heart will be online that day?

They've been pushed back a couple of weeks, but not much more. Should be in stores by April 15th.

[viol8or]

Loving the ROY video... Cant wait to try on a pair saturday

[KB237]

They've been pushed back a couple of weeks, but not much more. Should be in stores by April 15th.

Ah noooo!! So Syked to get these the wait goes on!

[bpc]

^{i love roy's ethic and aesthetic.}

^{kiya, can you describe what was different in the process of making the 04 "roy developed & exclusive" cone demin, which "was the first time in over sixty years where Cone has produced a loomstate unsanforized denim for anybody" and the 03 "roy developed & exclusive" cone denim, which "was the first time in decades where cone has produced a loomstate [unsanforized] denim." i'm not trying to be a smartass - i'm genuinly interested.}

^{whatever the case, these things look great.}

[kiya]

BPC,

The run that was done in December (the 03 model) was done of a fabric that was a test run, it wasn't designed ground up by Roy. It was a very small run of fabric that was piggybacked onto another run that was being made in the factory, we didn't have full control of what the outcome was. The new run is 100% designed by Roy and Bud (of Cone Mills) and is a production run of denim, five times the number of yards and it's own run from beginning to end.

[bpc]

BPC,

The run that was done in December (the 03 model) was done of a fabric that was a test run, it wasn't designed ground up by Roy. It was a very small run of fabric that was piggybacked onto another run that was being made in the factory, we didn't have full control of what the outcome was. The new run is 100% designed by Roy and Bud (of Cone Mills) and is a production run of denim, five times the number of yards and it's own run from beginning to end.

awesome - that's what i'd been wondering. thanks for the quick reply!

[Maynard Friedman]

Isn't most of the denim produced for LVC "loomstate, unsanforized"? That's not 60 years old. I think I know what SE are trying to say, but it seems a little misleading.

Perhaps I don't understand it.

Edited March 22, 2012 by Maynard Friedman

[kiya]

Isn't most of the denim produced for LVC "loomstate, unsanforized"? That's not 60 years old. I think I know what SE are trying to say, but it seems a little misleading.

Perhaps I don't understand it.

You don't understand it. LVC denim is not loomstate.

Unsanforized, loomstate, and "Shrink-To-Fit" are three separate terms and processes.

[tigerpac]

So how crazy is it going to be Saturday with everybody trying to jam into SENY to try on the Roys? I wanna, but not sure I can handle the denim fight lol.

Edited March 22, 2012 by tigerpac

[rayw44]

maynard, lvc is "unsanforized," but it is not "loomstate," because it has had numerous other processes done to it (like singeing, skewing, and all sorts of other processes depending on the denim).

So to hopefully help you understand, the roy denim has been loomed, and then sent untouched to roy, whereas the lvc denim is loomed and then processed further before being sent to lvc.

hope my limited understanding of the difference helps.

[viol8or]

Kiya how many pairs per size are you guys getting in??

[kimi]

soo size for size, are the rs4's a little looser than the rs3's? seems the raw measurements are a little larger.. or is the shrinkage a lot greater?

[boriori]

Kiya, if I wear 33 for the se05bsp, should I be getting a 34 in the rn04?

Thanks

[kiya]

Kiya how many pairs per size are you guys getting in??

A few of each size for SENY and SELA, a little bit more than that for SESF.

soo size for size, are the rs4's a little looser than the rs3's? seems the raw measurements are a little larger.. or is the shrinkage a lot greater?

The shrinkage is about the same, both are a straight leg jean, nothing too baggy or wide.

Kiya, if I wear 33 for the se05bsp, should I be getting a 34 in the rn04?

Thanks

I'd go for a 33, they both run true to size.

[kimi]

thanks, I have the rs3's and just trying to work out from the measurements how the fit has been tweaked on the rs4's