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Acronym.


Westbrook

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I love the central pocket, even more so when there is an asymmetrical array as per the J28.

 

I still want CP3 in a radical far left iteration.

 

ACR is evolutionary, the only downside is that I think all have expectation that runs so high that the reality cannot or rarely deliver upon that.

 

But for just a tiny outfit I think ACRONYM is nothing short on revolutionary in its refusal to nothing else than be itself.

 

There will always be influence from peers past & present (Mr Owens & Ostii etc ) and military garb but every now and then a sprinkle of magic dust may not look like a great leap but the whole package works, it doesn't pander to mass taste all the time for sure, surely that's why we all admire it so non?

 

Anyone for chilli in their chocolate?

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i've always found that the dudes who are seriously into acronym (and visvim as well) are almost identical to apple fanboys in that they can seemingly never, ever admit when they don't like something or even acknowledge that the company is not faultless and has come up with a bad idea or design. furthermore, all three have such a cultish following (in a bad way) and its customers have drank so much kool aid that they will literally pay anything to continue being a part of the collective hivemind.

 

saying that, its nice to see that some people have changed their outlooks slightly with more buyers openly (and honestly) criticising aspects they don't like about particular garments or selections as opposed to just gushing over absolutely everything and it all being one huge circle jerk. the only way things will be improved are if flaws are highlighted and recognised.

 

moving on to right now, but i don't know what's more offensive about the s6-c - the cut (particularly the sleeves) or the price itself. both are a complete joke and i wouldn't pay $50 for that trash. as mentioned previously by someone else, three different neck warmers is also total overkill.

 

i now await 50 neg reps, at least 2 responses of approx 1000+ words in length and a personal message to my inbox.

 

edit: the 'b-b-b-but the quality! magnetic clasps! errolson is cool!!l1!' responses are gonna be dumb because although i don't currently own any acronym pieces, i've owned them in the past and am not afraid to say when coveted designers release stuff that is overrated and/or just sucks entirely. without flaws or gripes being acknowledged, things will never be improved.

Edited by conqueror
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I can't speak for everyone else but I'm just here for the circle jerking.

On a serious note. The appeal that acronym has for me is the exclusivity, some functions of their clothing, and the biggest draw.. Aesthetics. The functions I find the most useful are the FORCELOCKæ, Escape Zip, and JACKETSLINGæ. Gravity pocket, in my opinion, is useless.. But cool. The only one that have been really impress with it is my 4 year old daughter who thinks it's magic. I'm not here to validate my purchasing of acronym pieces to you.. As true with everything in this world.. To each their own. My .02

Edited by Flipflop214
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Isn't all of sufu basically one big circle jerk?

 

There is some truth to the behavior described above, but I think it goes for most of the designers talked about here. 

 

I've actually found a lot of the discussion in this thread to be helpful in its criticality of flaws — for instance, I'll probably never buy a piece made from EPIC Amphibious Cotton based on the accounts of how quickly it fades / wears out. I appreciate the vision behind the brand and its presentation, but I don't have any temptation to own every single piece they put out. 

 

Much to the contrary, I got into Acronym when I began drastically downsizing my closet — focusing on a minimal set of garments that would serve me well through all 4 seasons. I only own a handful of Acronym pieces, but I feel like I already have pretty much all of my needs met.

 

As far as being offended by the pricing on the S6-C, I would have expected someone with over 2500 posts here to be completely desensitized to staggeringly expensive basics.

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saying that, its nice to see that some people have changed their outlooks slightly with more buyers openly (and honestly) criticising aspects they don't like about particular garments or selections as opposed to just gushing over absolutely everything and it all being one huge circle jerk. the only way things will be improved are if flaws are highlighted and recognised.

 

^ Precisely the point why I think that there is value in voicing our opinion regarding ACRONYM, both positive and otherwise. More so because the ACR-cult makes for a small enough loop (and the production is small enough) that any feedback put on here would lead to a direct effect.

 

I'd like to echo similar sentiment regarding the season. Maybe it's partly my fault? There is always expectation for FW to be the season for hardcore ACR-porn. Instead of the usual deepthroat, backdoor, and threeway tidings, it feels like we were served a relatively tame faux-amateur casting instead. Sure, the girl may be an 8, but we've already seen that before haven't we?

 

Who knows what's going on with the brand at the moment. They're cloak and dagger enough for me to just drink the "they've got bigger things planned" kool-aid and carry on. It's not like I'm leaving the circle or anything, but like the other folks here, I think plenty of us are still waiting for the porn to start.

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Much to the contrary, I got into Acronym when I began drastically downsizing my closet — focusing on a minimal set of garments that would serve me well through all 4 seasons. I only own a handful of Acronym pieces, but I feel like I already have pretty much all of my needs met.

 

 

Let's not kid ourselves. Acronym releases roughly 90% non-insulated Goretex shells good for rain and 10-20º weather. If it dips any more than that I'm using Veilance insulated shells on top of jumpers on top of wool baselayers.  Also, minimalism dictates wide application, and while I can easily wear the veilance sinter to a nice sit-down, I'd probably be getting 2x looks if I waltzed into a luxury hotel wearing an J1A. 

 

I love ACR but you've got to be kidding me if you think a minimal wardrobe consists of jackets Spetsnaz would probably think twice about.

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As far as being offended by the pricing on the S6-C, I would have expected someone with over 2500 posts here to be completely desensitized to staggeringly expensive basics.

 

i'm not offended whatsoever, in fact i admire the audacity. fleecers gonna fleece.

 

Isn't all of sufu basically one big circle jerk?

 

not really, but i would have expected someone with 238 posts to say that.

Edited by conqueror
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While they may release 90% goretex shells, as I said, I'm not interested in owning it all. I own a single gore piece by Acronym (J32-GT), two in schoeller (J25-SS / SS-CP2), and three in cotton (P10-S / C1-BR / S6-C). I consider all of those to be wearable across 4 seasons in various combinations and, with the exception of the SS-CP2, versatile enough to be wearable in most situations I find myself in. Complemented by some items from Outlier, Veilance and a wool-insulated MA-1 and I'm good. Really not that far-fetched.

 

 

i don't know what's more offensive about the s6-c - the cut (particularly the sleeves) or the price itself

 

i'm not offended whatsoever

 

k

Edited by Nullsleep
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j41 worn backwards (is it actually meant to be worn both ways???)

the styling is so bad in that entire hypebeast shoot

After trying it out, I have to say it does not make a lot of sense being worn backwards (zip in front).  Everything falls and sits wrong.  Zipper in the back makes sense, but would definitely take some practice to perfect.  Interesting concept but not my cup of tea.

Edited by thatslapz
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My J43-GT is in, bought it as a replacement for my J20-GT.

Three noticeable things that set it apart are:

- The gore-tex label on the sleeve, never seen this before on a ACRNM garment and I find it a rather odd placement...

- The snap button on the bottom and two at the top, I always missed this and it would cause my J20 collar to sag a bit on the top instead of staying nice and upright as in the promo images.

- They have used the green shockcord cords for the zipper, I always adjusted my jackets by putting those on the zipper myself. Usually promo images would show the cords but production versions would use other zipper attachments.

 

Furthermore, the two side pockets make use of the 3mm WR zipper. These are a way more flimsy then the 5mm and I'm not sure how long they will hold before something goes wrong....

The internal pockets use the same 3mm WR zippers. They are just a bit to small for comfortable handling.

The fit is spot-on, a bit short but not problematic. I bought a size S because I don't layer-up that much anyway, the sleeves on the M would have been too long + I like a more fitted jacket. The lack of gravity pockets is strange...this jacket screams for them.

Overall a good replacement for my J20 (which I will put on sale soon for anyone interested)

 

A gore-tex label on the sleeve...

2zzj29z.jpg

 

Snap button on the bottom and two on the top

nmkufk.jpg

Edited by shadows
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I can't speak for everyone else but I'm just here for the circle jerking.

On a serious note. The appeal that acronym has for me is the exclusivity, some functions of their clothing, and the biggest draw.. Aesthetics. The functions I find the most useful are the FORCELOCKæ, Escape Zip, and JACKETSLINGæ. Gravity pocket, in my opinion, is useless.. But cool. The only one that have been really impress with it is my 4 year old daughter who thinks it's magic. I'm not here to validate my purchasing of acronym pieces to you.. As true with everything in this world.. To each their own. My .02

 

Totally agree, gravity pockets are completely useless. 

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+rep for Sypron. 

 

It is good to vent criticism. It can only make the brand better.

I agree with most of the things you say, and the way I see it there could be one simple solution for all of this.

 

Acronym should let go of the seasons and just produce all year round.

That way they do not have the pressure of making entire collections where each collection needs to top the last one!

They can just release garments when they are ready, the one month it could be one jacket and 3 months later 2 pants plus a sweater. It doesn't matter as long as they deliver fully thought out garments. This way they can take as much time as they need and don't have the pressure to come up with feature X before season Y starts production. In my opinion this would lead to better garments, maybe less but that's not a bad thing.

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I did hesitate on the J43 for a day or two due to its lack of gravity pocket. I have the J28 and the sleeves are too roomy and a bit too long for me, to use the gravity pocket I can't tighten the velco on the wrist too much and the sleeve drops half below my hand which is not my favor. The sleeves on J43 are cut much slimmer and without the gravity pocket I can actually tighten the velco as much as I can to create a profile look rather than a baggy fit, which pairs well with the short jacket length imo.

 

ps: I totally agree with shadows that Acronym can try produce collections rather than seasons, like the legendary Carpe Diem once did. In this way they can focus more on the product rather than the fashion vibe.

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+rep for Sypron. 

 

It is good to vent criticism. It can only make the brand better.

I agree with most of the things you say, and the way I see it there could be one simple solution for all of this.

 

Acronym should let go of the seasons and just produce all year round.

That way they do not have the pressure of making entire collections where each collection needs to top the last one!

They can just release garments when they are ready, the one month it could be one jacket and 3 months later 2 pants plus a sweater. It doesn't matter as long as they deliver fully thought out garments. This way they can take as much time as they need and don't have the pressure to come up with feature X before season Y starts production. In my opinion this would lead to better garments, maybe less but that's not a bad thing.

Agreed, well put Sypron.

 

As per your comment Shadows, coming from a garment design background I can tell you that there is a slight problem with producing garments off calendar.

 

With seasonal production you are afforded the benefit of being able to plan your fabric/trim and factory floor usage early. Designing a season, say a year in advance will allow you to get all of your fabric qualities/colors approved so that the fabric mill can start producing the production quality fabric, and any new trim developments/molds will be completed and actual items will be ready and at the factory well before production starts.

 

The biggest thing that seasonal production benefits is the factory. I know Errolson owns the Czech factory that Acronym is produced in, but I also believe that Tilak is produced there as well, (and most likely other brands product, as ACR and Tilak alone are not enough to keep a fully functioning factory running. Errolson would be hemorrhaging money if this were the case). 

Seasonal production allows the factory to better plan the usage of the sewing floor and adequately set up the sewing lines in the most efficient way so that they are able to meet any other orders they might have.

 

I do agree that it would be nice for them to just flow garments year round, but I'm thinking more in the sense of small re-stocks. They could still do small releases for the 2 major seasons, but in the meantime if something sells out they could re-stock in a new color (maybe some more grays), this is something that would be built into the line plan when creating the seasonal collection.

 

And if we are adding suggestions for what we think could make the brand better as a whole I must say that the patterning/articulation is not quite perfected.

 

I was a pattern/sample maker for 4 years at my previous job, and since starting in the technical apparel industry I have been exposed to some techniques that I had never before seen. While at the most recent Outdoor Retailer trade show I had the opportunity to throw on a bunch of new garments from all of the big names (Black Diamond, Arc'teryx, Patagonia, Mammut, Marmot etc.). All of these brands are geared towards serious outdoor enthusiast and professionals and their patterning in the garments reflects this.  The new Arc'teryx hybrid soft-shell jacket "the Ephus" is the single best soft-shell I have ever worn. The Gossamera fabric they use has the perfect amount of stretch and a trim fit without being restrictive. It also has one of the best fitting composite hoods I have ever worn, but the biggest selling factor is the 180' lift underarm gussets. Everyone does these but they did it better, and this is one thing that I don't feel ACR has ever been able to achieve.

 

I purchased that GT-J16 off the bay and wore it around for a bit and while it is an extremely nice jacket, the X back patterning just doesn't work. It adds a whole lot of extra fabric where it isn't needed and still restricts the wearer's mobility. It also hikes up whenever you lift your arms, which is not something you want from a weather proof shell.

 

I might not be the ideal body type that ACR is intending to fit (6' 185 lbs with a 42" chest and 19.5" shoulder span), and with that said the "roomy" fits might not be roomy enough for my body type. However, my outerwear collection which is comprised heavily of Veilance fits immaculately. None of the pieces I have restrict movement and I don't feel that I need to size up to XL like I do in ACR gear.

 

I love the brand, the visuals, emotion and the idea behind it. But I feel like Errolson could take it so much further. To me the best thing ACR does is the 3rd Arm system. I will take my 3TS/6TS over the Veilance bags any day.

 

Sorry for the rant, slow day at work lol.

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J41 is novel, but absurdly impractical. It should go without saying that a zipper on the back is not more efficient than one on the front. It offers no benefits over a regular zipper, and introduces numerous problems. Firstly, donning the garment is made more difficult. Secondly, wearing the jacket open is made less practical. In a regular situation you might open a jacket to access pockets on the layer underneath. Impossible with J41. And you might argue that it makes taking the jacket off easier, in the case of cars or with messenger bags. I would argue that Acronym already solved this problem with vehicular escape zip, without compromising the rest of the functionality. And what is the point of a gore-tex jacket without a hood? It doesn't insulate, and it won't keep you dry. A hooded gore-tex jacket, or anything with insulation, is going to serve better in any situation.

 

J1A is a classic design, of course, but is long overdue for patching. It was really superseded by the J36 and J28, and is in many ways inferior. Acronym already improved upon the J1A, why do they keep releasing it in the original state? The chest vent is needlessly difficult to open or close with one hand, as there is nothing for the zipper to pull 'against'. The interops zipper is using the same design as the first release, without a camlock or WR tape. J43 is using a canted zip with dual press studs and an internal stormflap, why isn't J1A? Same goes for the storm flap pocket. Regular 3mm zip with no camlock. The main zipper uses a triple-layer placket, which is needlessly cumbersome to close. The J43 has managed to achieve a single-layer placket while maintaining escape zip AND press stud fixtures. Credit where credit is due, they did update the hood design from single-fold to contour (much better wind resistance and appearance).

 

J40 is simply overpriced. It lacks many features that should be considered ACRNM standard, yet is price as high as Stotz pieces come. No collar or hood means less elemental protection and less versatility. No forcelock. No escape zip, or even two-way zip. No speedlock. The center 'expansion' panel barely affords 2 inches of extra width. That's not expansion. Your chest 'expands' that much when you breathe. The cuff features both a zipper AND velcro adjusters. You don't need both. Why not just stick to velcro and gravity pockets like all the other designs (J1, J27, J28, J29, J30, J31, J32, J34, J36, J38, etc)?

 

P16/P16A. It's simply a step back from P14. They went from having a pant with superb freedom of movement in a clean cut to simple having superb freedom of movement. P16 just looks, bow-legged. Deformed. Unusual. I'm not going to argue with having cargo pockets on the P16A, that's fantastic, but they're in a terrible position. There's already a deep pocket there.

 

J43 is definitely the closest thing to a finished product here. Plenty of innovation, and exactly what I would expect from every new item in a given collection. The main zipper has received some excellent upgrades, the press stud placement in particular is a warm welcome (especially when in interops mode). Also, all the new jackets should get that canted interops zip. But it's not without faults. I see the point of having a cyclone-proof hood, but they over-did it. You lose all peripheral vision with something that conical. And if you're going to try to make an element-defying hood, the jacket simply needs to be cut longer. There's no two ways about it, the jacket is needlessly short. I stress needlessly, because there is literally no reason it couldn't be another 4-5 inches longer. And for some absurd reason, no gravity pockets.

 

Now, some of you will claim I'm being too critical here. But really, I'm only comparing Acronym against itself. These designs don't live up to the brand's legacy. It's like we're seeing the scraps from the cutting room floor, or someone else trying to replicate the same ideas and missing the mark. Acronym seems to be pushing from function to form. From practical to fashionable. From consumer to runway. I no longer get the impression that the goal here is to produce state-of-the-art innovations for everyday clothes, and that's really what appealed to me in the first place.

 

Great post! My take:

 

J41: Unconventional not impractical. Design offers improved wind chill resistance and insulation and a single large pocket in front, for storage or for when you just want to hold yourself tight. Rear zip lets you sit and not worry about the front bunching up and sending the collar into your chin. Fashionable minimalist style in front, Wong Fei-Hung Hung Gar style at the back (lanyard or pigtail?). 

J1A: The alpha and omega. The signature Acronym piece. Timeless. 

 

J40: The big bucks go to the fit and cut;  meticulously constructed; kick-ass pattern making. Acronym's version of Chanel's little black jacket. Hide in plain sight. 

 

P16A: It's a matter of taste. Are you happy to see me or is that an iPad Mini in your pants? 

 

J43: Funnel hood becomes high collar. Long jacket means when you sit, the high collar will push up and cover your face. Ninja don't want that.

 

;-] 

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ayo errolson if you reading this, you need to do more colors for some of the acr jackets instead of mainly black with the occasional odd color thrown in. 

 

he's definitely reading this - considering how active he is on twitter it would be cool to see him post on forums every so often like abe at outlier etc. some may argue that errolson doing so would mean acronym loses some of its 'exclusivity' or mystique (subnetz!!!1) but as timdot points out, sufu arguably has the strongest acronym following on the entire internet. i see it as a great opportunity for both the designer and buyer (or 'hater', as he suggests) to interact on a beneficial level for both parties.

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Expectation:

he's definitely reading this - considering how active he is on twitter it would be cool to see him post on forums every so often like abe at outlier etc. some may argue that errolson doing so would mean acronym loses some of its 'exclusivity' or mystique (subnetz!!!1) but as timdot points out, sufu arguably has the strongest acronym following on the entire internet. i see it as a great opportunity for both the designer and buyer (or 'hater', as he suggests) to interact on a beneficial level for both parties.

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