The Flat Head

[Aviv]

Just wanted to follow up on the 1015 here. Mine aren't fully dry yet and I'd like to wear them for a few hours before fit pics - but I can say that having slipped them on briefly just now they look pretty awesome - very authentically 50s. I think the stitching is different from the 1005 - supposedly more durable for riding? The back pockets are also lined with a nice canvas cloth embossed with TFH logos. Is this normal on the 1000 series? Or I wonder if it is part of the whole added durability thing? 

 

While I haven't owned the 1005, the fit seems almost identical based on photos I've been able to find. It seems there is a tab more in the hip and rise, though it looks pretty much the same. I'm totally pumped to have received this random pair of lesser known Flat Head's by mistake - stay tuned...

[Aviv]

And here are some fit pics. Opinions? 

 

[beautiful_FrEaK]

Looks more comfortable and like a nice straight fit. Already machine washed?

[Aviv]

Looks more comfortable and like a nice straight fit. Already machine washed?

Nope just soaked. Plenty of room for more shrink. Will the 16oz denim continue to shrink?

[tigerstrom]

Nice fit! I would throw them in the washingmachine. That's the best way to get all the shrink out.

Edited June 21, 2016 by tigerstrom

[Aviv]

Nice fit! I would throw them in the washingmachine. That's the best way to get all the shrink out.

Hot? Normally I wash my denim on cold.

[tigerstrom]

I always do my initial wash at 60°C. But try 40°C if you don't want to wash them to hot

[itsbenhere]

You're planning on washing your jeans at some point right? And washing is what gets out the most shrinkage.... so you should just do that first, do when you finally wash your jeans you don't find they've shrunk too much and are uncomfortable and now way harder to sell than if you figured out they didn't fit right in the beginning.

 

If you're only planning on cold washing them, maybe you can just cold wash. I'm unsure if they might continue to shrink after subsequent cold washes, but I know for a fact that after you hot wash a pair of jeans they don't shrink any more. So I do the latter and figure out right away if the jeans will fit in the end or not. After all, what's the harm right? They're supposed to be washed anyway.

[Aviv]

You're planning on washing your jeans at some point right? And washing is what gets out the most shrinkage.... so you should just do that first, do when you finally wash your jeans you don't find they've shrunk too much and are uncomfortable and now way harder to sell than if you figured out they didn't fit right in the beginning.

 

If you're only planning on cold washing them, maybe you can just cold wash. I'm unsure if they might continue to shrink after subsequent cold washes, but I know for a fact that after you hot wash a pair of jeans they don't shrink any more. So I do the latter and figure out right away if the jeans will fit in the end or not. After all, what's the harm right? They're supposed to be washed anyway.

 

Yes, I am a proponent of frequent washing, much like yourself (at least as far as your posts on Sufu tell me). I am no stranger to TFH - got my first pair in 2012 and they were the 3001. I loved the fit but after about 8 months I had to sell them because I lost too much length for that particular cut on my long skinny legs. 

 

I am not opposed to hot washes, I just usually cold wash once I've determined I've got the shrinkage out. In my experience, if you have hot soaked a pair of raw, unsanforized 3xxx denim, the difference between cold or hot machine washing is minimal. They will shrink either way in the first wash. Beyond that I think perceived shrinkage is just the denim tightening up - it always softens right away. With these 1015 jeans, I can easily afford more shrinkage in the fit overall, I actually would prefer some. I'll throw them in the washer today. 

 

In the end I did end up doing as you suggested regarding the 3009 though - I like a nice tight top block, but not at the expense of my health. Cheers!

[itsbenhere]

Nice, if you want more shrinkage those jeans could be a perfect fit on you! Also, I've heard that the exceed denim (1xxx) doesn't shrink as much as the pioneer denim, so that's good too.

 

I agree that the difference between a hot/cold soak is negligible once you wash it, but the difference in shrinkage between the soaks and washes is definitely not negligible. So that's why I always wash first... and there's so many examples of people wearing their jeans for a few months and them eventually shrinking up on them. Washing them up front takes care of all of that; I'm super annoying about telling everyone to do that, but I wish super bad that when I didn't know what I was doing (not that you don't) somebody like me was like "WASH YOUR JEANS YA FUCK THEY AIN'T SHRUNK!"

[Aviv]

Nice, if you want more shrinkage those jeans could be a perfect fit on you! Also, I've heard that the exceed denim (1xxx) doesn't shrink as much as the pioneer denim, so that's good too.

 

I agree that the difference between a hot/cold soak is negligible once you wash it, but the difference in shrinkage between the soaks and washes is definitely not negligible. So that's why I always wash first... and there's so many examples of people wearing their jeans for a few months and them eventually shrinking up on them. Washing them up front takes care of all of that; I'm super annoying about telling everyone to do that, but I wish super bad that when I didn't know what I was doing (not that you don't) somebody like me was like "WASH YOUR JEANS YA FUCK THEY AIN'T SHRUNK!"

 

Ha, yes! I wish someone had told me that way back when I first bought the 3001. The top fit so sexy and after soaking them I assumed I had done my job. Once they got too short they look like bootcut jeans from the knee down on me. Lesson learned. 

 

Sort of...except that I had to double-purchase the 3009s   It's cool though - now I will get it just right (also I sold them easily). 

[emgee420]

got my first pair of flat heads. i had handled them previously at self edge but could not imagine them shrinking down enough to be a fit i'd be happy with (32" waist x 30" inseam, was worried about the size of the leg opening at that inseam). i picked up the once soaked pair of 3009s member Aviv put up for sale (couldnt pass on the price). received them, put them thru a hot wash/air dry, loved the fit so i decided to get them hemmed. more than happy with the final results. 

 

Edited June 26, 2016 by emgee420

[cmboland]

WELL!     

another exciting day for me. A friend of mind is sending me a deadstock pair of PROxFH05 with pronto tote bag and some denim carnival goodies from that year. Extremely excited. I managed to pick up both of my grail collabs from The Flat Head!

[cmboland]

got my first pair of flat heads. i had handled them previously at self edge but could not imagine them shrinking down enough to be a fit i'd be happy with (32" waist x 30" inseam, was worried about the size of the leg opening at that inseam). i picked up the once soaked pair of 3009s member Aviv put up for sale (couldnt pass on the price). received them, put them thru a hot wash/air dry, loved the fit so i decided to get them hemmed. more than happy with the final results. 

 

Spot on.

[oomslokop]

took this photo for an id card at work but i thought it shows off my fave black mint dobby shirt pretty well.

unfortunately after 3 years or so the shirt shrank enough to be relegated to overshirt use only. can't

button the belly-area buttons because of the western shirt pattern taper. the colour has also faded quite

a bit, i love it.

[Cold Summer]

Great looking shirt, I've always thought that one in both colors was one of the best shirts they've ever made. I think that collection (FW2013) had the best collection of shirts Flat Head has ever put together. They've had good ones since then but not as consistently as impressive as that season. Of course, it helps that I got to see them all up close and in person

[Max Power]

This Shirt makes me feel dizzy (while I agree that it looks great).

[oomslokop]

it does doesn't it. it gets better in real life too. try concentrating on all the interlocking patterns,

on acid.

[Aviv]

I have had quite the Flat Head adventure over the past week. Had to buy two pairs of 3009s to get my sizing right and now have to sell the 1015 because it doesn't work for my lanky legs. I think I should probably stick to the slimmer cuts. Anyone here over 6 ft, slim, and got pics of yourself in the 3005 or 1005?

[itsbenhere]

Don't sell them man! They looked perfect, and that was probably before they shrunk more after the wash.

I wouldn't get the 3005 or 1005, they're pretty loose and have huge leg openings. I'd definitely stick with the 1015 and 3009 - that's a good combo

Or, you could get a slim straight RJB (D105/105BSP). The denim is killer!

Edited June 27, 2016 by itsbenhere

[Aviv]

Don't sell them man! They looked perfect, and that was probably before they shrunk more after the wash.

I wouldn't get the 3005 or 1005, they're pretty loose and have huge leg openings. I'd definitely stick with the 1015 and 3009 - that's a good combo

Or, you could get a slim straight RJB (D105/105BSP). The denim is killer!

 

They do look better after the hot wash, I just couldn't decide if I was feeling it. I like the big leg opening it's just something about the overall fit. 

 

I worry I wouldn't like the fact that the 3005 has such a short rise but big legs. I feel like I'd prefer a high rise like a true 50s jeans to go with those stove pipe legs, no?

[itsbenhere]

Post a pic so I can convince you to keep them.

The 3005 does have a lower rise than you'd expect for a cut like that. The 3003 has larger legs and a higher rise, but that's even looser than the 3005 and seems like it'd be in the wrong direction for you.

[beautiful_FrEaK]

So maybe it's time to look into other brands with other cuts?

[Aviv]

Post a pic so I can convince you to keep them.

The 3005 does have a lower rise than you'd expect for a cut like that. The 3003 has larger legs and a higher rise, but that's even looser than the 3005 and seems like it'd be in the wrong direction for you.

 

 

I like the flat head denim better than any other I've seen (I've handled or own most well known Japanese brands with the exception of Warehouse and the Real McCoys). 3009 is hands down my favorite fit. 3005 is cool I'm just not sure how it would look. 

 

I should say, I am into retro style cuts. Not necessarily full blown repros, but I like 50s styled Levi's cuts with high rises and engineer boot openings. I actually think I'd like the 3003. Does it only come in a washed version? That's all 2nd seems to have listed on Rakuten. 

 

@itsbenhere: here are your pics. I guess they do look pretty good now that I'm looking at the photos. They turned out to be a tad looser in the waist than I would like - but I can't really imagine sizing down working. 

 

Edited June 27, 2016 by Aviv

[itsbenhere]

I would seriously encourage you to keep those. They are seriously textbook perfect, especially if you like looser fits! And you can tell that it's not too loose on you because the top block/whiskers look normal too, not too much fabric there.

 

Cuff them up make the leg cleaner and you're golden. Really, I think that's one of the best fits on jeans I've ever seen. Sit on them for a while before you decide to sell them!

[Aviv]

I would seriously encourage you to keep those. They are seriously textbook perfect, especially if you like looser fits! And you can tell that it's not too loose on you because the top block/whiskers look normal too, not too much fabric there.

 

Cuff them up make the leg cleaner and you're golden. Really, I think that's one of the best fits on jeans I've ever seen. Sit on them for a while before you decide to sell them!

 

Wow thanks man! I'm actually waiting on a pair of Viberg roper boots that I think will look awesome with these cuffed up. 

 

I'm really intrigued by the 3003 - just tried to place my first order through 2nd. Not sure how if I did it correctly but we'll find out in a few hours once Japan is awake!

[beautiful_FrEaK]

I agree with Ben, the fit is really really good! And concerning the waist...just wear a nice belt

[edmond]

Are those the 3003? What size? Can i get a measurement?

[Aviv]

Are those the 3003? What size? Can i get a measurement?

 

They are the 1015, which is basically the 1005 with slightly higher rise and a bit more room in the seat. What measurement are you asking for?

[edmond]

Ohh hows the front rise? In what size?